Fibber

Even as I wrote the post this morning I had just a sneaking suspicion that the northerly might bring some sideways action this afternoon. And it sort of did.

I got a few fun ones at BP Groyne late this afternoon. They were pretty small but fun. There was a plenty of wall but the wind swell was pretty gutless. The glassy conditions and the clear water made it a little hard to see down the line at times !

I didn't deliberately lie but I did get it to myself !

Surf Movie Sunday

Quiksilver's new movie - Moments 2. Fifteen minutes of goodness. And Moments 1 from last year if you missed it.

Don't go to the beach

Its a perfect storm of rubbish. Full moon high tide, no swell, no banks and north winds with a touch of north west.

Not even the hint of a wave.

0.35 @ 14

Fiji on

The Volcom Pro is on in vicious double overhead Cloudbreak. Luckily round one is non- elimination as it is a very fluky.

Taj had a total of four in his heat and came last. Yadin was leading his with less than a minute to go before Owen Wright chucked a huge cuttie between two tubes.

The webcast is very high quality but the commentators aren't. You can watch it at the normal places, they are about five hours in front.

Still here

Haven't  bothered going to the beach much this week. Today showed me that I haven't missed much.

The swell has been around the 0.4 mark but isn't breaking with anything surfable. A few groms and desperadoes tried at the reef and on the beachies matched their skill levels with the close outs but were still having buckets of fun.

The Stormsurf.com models don't look that flash for the near future. It has a dropping trend until the next front comes through around Thursday.

Surf : 1 foot
Wind : offshore
Swell : 0.48 at 15 seconds
Quality : zip out of anything

Pluses and minuses

Bit each way this morning.

The pluses

Swell has come up
Wind is offshore
Water is crystal clear
Sun is warming the air

Minuses

The banks have all gone
There is a fair bit of north in the wind
The swell is inconsistent

The Reef is the only place that is throwing up anything worth pulling a wet suit on for and only just.

It might get better later but with no banks left I doubt it.

Smaller

The swell has dropped a little but the waves are still coming in around chest height. The tide is pretty full and only the bigger ones are breaking and are bit fat.

The right out of the rip at Juniors is the pick.

Surf : 2 -3
Wind : SE
Swell : 0.48 @ 12 and dropping
Quality : bit fat and a bit fast
Recommendation : worth the paddle for one or two decent one in the session

Still cranking

Consistent head height sets at Juniors, the reef and the groyne. There is truckloads of power but most waves are short or not makeable. The crowd is big and the skill level pretty low, making it hard to get a proper read on the quality.

Surf : head height
Swell : 0.67 @ 12
Quality : smashing
Recommendation : look and judge for yourself

Swell won't quit

Another bump this arvo. The wind was onshore and the shape pretty marginal but there was the odd one between the dumpers. People were out all the way from Juniors to the groyne.

Should drop a little tomorrow but more off shores early and then surge again Sunday.

0.73 @ 12

More waves

Still cranking this morning.

Get out there before the weekend we I can get out so it will be flat.

Dark

Really black clouds and plenty of rain on the horizon this afternoon but I don't know if much will hit us.

There was a little rip bank off the rocks at Juniors this arvo in light onshore conditions. You can tell how inviting it was by the fact that three people were out and another five were trying to find reasons to pull on the wetsuit.

0.71 @ 12

JJ

John Florence has just beat Parko in the final by going to the air.

John John is the full package and has been a standout all contest. He can find a tube anywhere and throws massive airs.

With Slater a no show and everyone above him falling earlier Parko has gone to the top of the ratings.

The waves weren't good no matter how the sponsors talk it up. Billabong had pulled out of the WCT at J-Bay but could find the money for Rio. This event should have been down graded to a six star and J-Bay left alone. The ASP suffers from being controlled by the big surf companies and this is an example of putting sales before the sport.

Nearly over

First semi in the water. Parko vs Mick in glassy waves. Plenty of closeouts but some barrels and ramps.

Second semi John Florence v Josh Kerr.

Watch it on FuelTV and the net.

CCC

Cold, clean and cranking.

Get out there as it is likely to clean up a little more during the morning. Plenty of swell and some corners in between the close outs.

Do it

but quickly.

Basically no wind and really glassy conditions at BP. The swell is hanging around and it looks like a proper surf spot.

There are two guys out and I watched one get a fat-ish take off that then sucked across the bank giving some nice wall and a decent length of ride.

I wouldn't wait to long because the wind will probably be in soon but should only be light.

Size : 2 -3 foot
Wind : calm
Swell : 0.81 @ 12 and holding
Quality : glassy and walling
Desperation level : low
Recommendation : go right now

Yadin out

Yadin Nichol has been beaten by C J Hopgood in Rio. Yadin had a four and one plus. CJ had nothing until he pulled into the only real tube of the heat and got an eight. Parko was calling the heat and pointed out than today an eight is worth twelve.

Everyone is hoping they can it at the end of this round.

Men on in Rio crap

Shitty waves for the Billabong Pro again today. There is a bit of size (5 foot pro size) but is is messy, wobbly, rip filled close outs. The first couple of heats had the odd decent little tube but with the dropping tide they have disappeared.

The last three heats were all won with less than a 10 point two wave total. They have been close but thats because no one can get more than a four. They are talking about running round three because there is swell. Hopefully they will wait to see if the waves clean up and become more contestable.

FuelTV has the broadcast and their is a webcast as well.

UPCOMING BILLABONG RIO PRO ROUND 2 MATCH-UPS:
Heat 1: Gabriel Medina (BRA) lost to Peterson Crisanto (BRA)
Heat 2: Michel Bourez (PYF) beat Tomas Hermes (BRA)
Heat 3: John John Florence (HAW) beat Willian Cardoso (BRA)
Heat 4: Heitor Alves (BRA) beat Taylor Knox (USA)
Heat 5: Damien Hobgood (USA) lost to Patrick Gudauskas (USA)
Heat 6: Brett Simpson (USA) beat Jadson Andre (BRA)
Heat 7: Bede Durbidge (AUS) vs. Fredrick Patacchia (HAW) - in the water now
Heat 8: C.J. Hobgood (USA) vs. Yadin Nicol (AUS)
Heat 9: Raoni Monteiro (BRA) vs. Travis Logie (ZAF)
Heat 10: Kai Otton (AUS) vs. Tiago Pires (PRT)
Heat 11: Kieren Perrow (AUS) vs. Kolohe Andino (USA)
Heat 12: Matt Wilkinson (AUS) vs. Adam Melling (AUS)

Bang

Lots of swell coming in last night. I was down just as the sun was coming up this morning to see a solid lump of swell close out from Barnacles across Juniors and past the reef. The wind was trying to be offshore but was more side shore. Half an hour later I went past again and the push was still around but the maccas were fairly scarce. Nothing surfable of course.

The temp was weird. It was like there was a line at the BP carpark. On the ocean side it was southerly and  18 degrees, on the harbour side it was cold easterly and around 11. You could almost find the spot where one side of you would be warm and the other cold.

The swell has hung around although it has dropped from over a metre to just over 0.8. The wind has been wrong all day. Tomorrow looks like a carbon copy of today with winds and temps the same. Although WSW is forecast their might just be the slightest window very early but I wouldn't bet my house on it.

Girls done

Sally Fitzgibbons has won the women's Billabong Pro Rio in more crappy beach break dribble. She beat Coco Ho in a close final. Both surfers got decent scores on waves that normally would be scored a four but got beefed up with the conditions.

This is her second win of the year and she is again a serious contender for the title again this year with just two more events left (France and the US Open).

Hopefully the men will get better waves but don't bet on it. Round two surfers would be getting a little nervous.

Swells up

but its crap.

1.06 in the harbour but cold on shores all day and lowish tides. No waves.

Might be bad for a few days but again look for the windows where it will be ok

Disappointing

The swell is still around but the tide, wind and northerly drift have killed it.

Two out at Juniors struggling and a group at the groyne being blown to South Africa. The waves look ok if you were able to get them but no one can.

It is possible that the conditions might improve but i'm not confident.

Surf : 2 foot sets
Swell : 0.46 @ 11
Winds : strong easterly but with a northerly drift
Quality : below average
Desperation level : pretty desperate but no one will laugh if you go out
Recommendation : watch

Don't wait

still waves. Bit of a crowd and a bit fat but worth it and not just because its Friday.

Steady 0.53 at nearly 12

Priorities

Work can wait. Get out there.

Clean waves with a little punch at Juniors. The tide and the rip are making it hard to get in the right position but when you do there is a decent wall to work with. Hell of a lot better than the crap the sent the women's CT out in in Rio last night.

A dropping tide will help and it should be fairly good all morning. No one was on them but there looks like some beachies as happening at BP as well. And the reef has a couple of lefts for the goofies.

Sorry

I planned on blogging the conditions when I first got to work but as usually was under the pump from the get go.

It was wobbly and offshore first thing with only two a long way out. There was a reasonable slice of size and some runners if you could get the right one

Late this arvo there was still plenty out. The wind was onshore but just making it crumbly. Plenty of waves and some little walls.

The clam is starting to form a bank and sand has moved around at Hungry Hollow. A rip is allowing some shape out the front of Extensions.

Should be clean tomorrow and maybe worth a sickie.

0.60 @ 10

Rio on

The Billabong Pro Rio has started with Men's round one heats in some decent beach breaks. The waves look tricky and are breaking out of a weird sidewash take off from a rocky headland.

Taj has just won his round one heat ins board he basically has never ridden.

Big news is that Slater pulled out a few days ago with a leg injury. That gives some else a chance to be number one after the event.

The webcam and results are down at the moment but it's live on FuelTV.

Brazil isn't good for us time wise and usually the surf is pretty crap. If the heats start early enough you can get through a few before bed but the bulk will be for night owls only.

Back

Rain's back but luckily not the wind.

The swell has dropped from its massive 7 metres during the height of the front but there is still waves. BP looks pretty crappy but a few have tried their luck. I probably would have in the past but too fat and lazy now.

The forecast is for light winds over the next few days with the possibility of offshore from tomorrow. The blow and the tides have moved plenty of sand around so their could be banks everywhere (or close outs).

Swell : 0.68 @ 11

I wonder

On days like today what Bunbury would be like if a massive clean swell hit. There are some huge waves capping and breaking way out and some big walls amongst the carnage.

The harbour buoy is 1.19 metres and Naturaliste is just a touch under six. Winds have been gusting in the high 30 kph since early this morning and as high as 50 at times. Augusta is being smashed as usual with winds getting close to double our worst.

Wouldn't be planning on getting wet for a few days (excluding getting caught in the rain). Neither Fraggles or the wall have decent banks yet but this front will help.

Don't bother

The surf is as you would expect - onshore mush. There isn't much size and very little shape.

A few have paddled out over the day but no one has really got anything worth the effort paddling.

Not looking good for a few days but there might be a window here and there if you're quick.

0.75 @ 12 from the WNW

There's

A bit of swell showing but no shape. Might be worth keeping a eye on if you don't have anything pressing to do.

If you can get down south and out of the wind a little it should be good all day.

0.49 @ 14

Code Red online

Billabong has release the HD version of its Code Red Tahiti video on YouTube. Amazing quality footage of one of the biggest days surfed at Chopes. Worth spending the 15 minutes watching.

Sheeple

Still a little swell around but the tide is killing it. But that hasn't stopped a pile of people heading out this morning.

Now my whinge. Most days Barnacles just roles through minding its own business without any even looking at it. Its tricky and short and usually results in you losing a fin or two.

There are probably five people who regularly surf Barnacles and they usually do it to get away from the crowds at Juniors or off the reef. Eden is one of those and he went out this morning. There is one wave sets maybe every ten minutes and they are only just rideable on the tide. Fifteen minutes later there are four booogers and a short board paddling out to sit on him. If he wasn't out they would have been with the other five on the reef or at Juniors but being sheeple they feel a natural need to paddle out and ruin the surf of the guy by himself.

Hint - the guy by himself is usually giving up quality for no crowds and is probably a better surfer than you. LEAVE THEM ALONE AND SURF SOMEWHERE ELSE.

Sorry but it need to be said.

Waves : 1' inconsistent
Winds : just swinging NNW
Swell : 0.60 @ 13 and blipping upwards slightly
Desperation level : zen master as it is frustrating as hell
Recommendation : monitor

Still swell

Still swell kicking around even if the banks aren't really coping. Yesterday kicked over 0.7 but the direction kept it small here.

This morning it had rapidly dropped to the 0.4 mark and with the high tide just wasn't consistent enough to be fun.

Still there was perfect glassy conditions late this arvo and a couple out at Juniors in mainly close outs.

I took the 9 footer to Barnacles for a few fin scrappers. With oily grey water, no one else out and birds dive bombing bait fish the thought of sharks did cross my mind once or twice.

The swell has come off its midday high and should be dropping over the weekend. The winds start to go to crap anyway but I wouldn't totally write the weekend off just yet.

Red sky

Fiery sunrise on this most sacred Australian day. I've been going to the Dawn Service for years and this years crowd was probably the biggest I have ever seen.

Australian War Memorial - Somme - France

There is still a little swell  and the forecast seems to indicated it will hang around. There are two early risers at Juniors in 1' lefts off the rocks. I'm fighting with myself about whether to start work late and get wet or just accept it. My conscience will probably get the better of me.

Surf : 1'
Wind : glassy and offshore
Swell : 0.42 at 12 and a bit and on the way up
Quality : some fun short ones
Desperation level : school tomorrow
Recommendation : consider

Just

Still the smallest bump of swell left. There is a little left across Juniors. The wind is cold and offshore.

Groms looking for a wave before the holidays end should pack the baked beans and spend the day at the beach.

Size : 1'
Wind : offshore
Swell : 0.39 @ 12

Another one

Another nice day with a little swell and all day offshores. I was going to blog first thing this morning when I got to work but as usual Monday's are a shit fight so it didn't happen.

The waves first up weren't world class but surfable enough to be fun. I'm sure it would have cleaned up a little as the morning warmed up.

The arvo had a few waves and a collection of craft. Shorties, SUPs and boggers but they seemed to be enjoying the sun and each other more than the small waves. The tide was pretty shallow but the rip and the reef both threw up the odd one here and there.

Tomorrow looks smaller again but still offshore. Maybe enough for the grooms before school starts again.

0.45 m @a millisecond under 12

All day

The wind stayed light so people were paddling around all day.

You know you're spoilt when ten is to crowed. I'm spoiled and walked down to a rip bank down the beach. My screwed back allows me to stand up on one out of every three waves so I got a couple (moving back to Juniors when the crowd left) but wiped out more often than that. Here a collection of photos I took this morning.

Small

Small wonky swell around 1 - 2 foot. Clean conditions and four out.

Not the sort of day you would give up something else for but if you've got nothing else you might get one to make it worthwhile.

Surf : 1 - 2'
Wind : SE
Swell : 0.42 @ 11
Quality : wonky with the odd short corner
Desperation level : nothing else to do
Recommendation : consider but soon

Over

Wind is in but there are still a couple of fun ones for the two grooms out. I wouldn't bother unless you really need a surf.

Probably if you were out really early it was fun and light offshore but who knows.

Tomorrow looks ok, swell increasing to 3 metres and SSE winds. The banks have shuffled around so there might be a little shape.

Swell 0.52 @ 12. Naturaliste 2.7 at 12.

Some vids to pump you up

Bit of a range, mostly freaky things.

Sometime you wonder who decided this was a surfable wave.



This is unbelievable and will make you rethink what a skim board can do.



Ry Craike at home on a not so great day !



and a couple of old school shredders

Kelly in the 90s, most of the ASP still can't do this.



and some recent Tom Curren

Swell

Plenty of swell around and off shores this morning. I didn't want to torture myself by checking it on the way to work but I suspect it was pretty messy with the wonky swell and small wave banks. I could have been wrong but it kept my sanity at work.

I wandered around my office and cruelly told one of the blokes, who is a bit of a big wave hell man, that Coastalwatch had Marges as 10 foot. He couldn't jump on the swell cams fast enough but we both felt a little better as it was a decent size but a bit drunk looking. We did see one guy get fully pitted at the little bank south of Smith reef but it was crowded and fluky.

Swell is still up around the 0.7 mark and holding steady. The forecast if for it to slowly ease over the next couple of days but with south west winds. First thing Saturday might be ok or the trip down south for a sheltered spot or two (hopefully the crowd will be surfed out).

Clean

Nice glassy clean conditions first up this morning but the swell has dropped away. There is just the very rare two footer breaking at Juniors. If you are very lucky you might get one or two for the whole session.

Apparently it is onshore already down south so don't bother heading that way either.

Size : 1' with odd 2' set
Wind : light offshore
Swell : 0.39 @ 12
Tide : 1.05 m and still rising
Desperation level : naturally lucky people only
Recommendation : work

Nice day

The quickest way to describe the surf is yesterday with less sets and more crowds. The incoming tide is stopping most waves breaking and the sets are coming with one wave or the very rare second one. There was 15 out when I left about a couple of hours ago.

Luckily for me there was only three while I was out and a couple on the reef. A goofy footer with a goatee was cleaning up, getting every set from way deep, shooting the second and smashing a nice bottom top turn combo.

I got tired of waiting so swapped boards and hit Barnacles. It funny how having your fins scrape the bottom on take off can make one footers bring a smile to your face.

The water and air temp were ideal. Still in boardies and a wetsuit vest although everyone else seems to have been tricked into bringing out the winter rubber.

The onshore is in but still light. The forecast is for showers from Marges south and there is clouds on the horizon. For us just enjoy the fine weather.

0.59 @ 11 seconds. Tide 1.1 metres (predicted as 0.85)

Frustrating

A few small waves first thing this morning but it was pretty frustrating. The tide was super high again and almost everything was rolling over the back bank/rip combo. There was the odd super clean A frame but it was flukey to catch them.

Plus my back is screwed again and I couldn't get to my feet smoothly anyway.

Soooooo frustrated.

The wind has swung onshore and while there is the very very rare dribbler coming through you wouldn't give up much for a surf.

Buoy 0.41 at 11 seconds and pretty steady over the last twenty four hours.

Hold your breath

The Billabong XXL Wipeout nominations have just hit the net. They are all unbelievable but I'm leaning to Mark Mathews having the whole Indian Ocean folding onto his head.

Confession

I could have done the surf report at 8.00 am but didn't because I wanted an uncrowded surf a little later. First up the conditions were nice and there were little waves and some walls for the four guys out.

After breakfast and walking the dogs I took the slab for a bash. As my feet hit the sand the last guy left the water. The waves were very very inconsistent and the increasing full moon tide was killing it. If you were patient and lucky there were waves but by the time I left around 11 the majority were surging over the bank.

I have just checked and the wind has swung light onshore and with peak of the tide being at noon and 15 centimetres over the prediction the waves have stopped. Looks like that might be it for the next few days.

Glitter

The waves hung around for me to get wet after work. As soon as I paddled out everyone else caught one in.

The waves out of the rip at Juniors were clean and fun. No matter which way you went you ended on rocks but the lefts were best.

The swell hasn't really dropped much over the day and is still hovering about 0.5 metres. The forecast is for the swell to ease slowly over the weekend but there isn't much room for a drop locally.

If you can face the crowds get up early and run south. Coastalwatch reported 8 to 10' this morning.

Get one for me

Perfect conditions this morning - offshore winds, clear skies and some waves, just bring the steamer.

There is a nice consistent left at the southern end of Juniors and the less frequent runner off the reef and the beachies.

There's no one out first thing but I suspect that won't last long. I won't be one of the crowd because I'm off to work but it might still be ok when I finish.

Normally I would suggest heading south because it will be classic but with the Easter crowds I would think twice (unless you have a secret spot).

Surf : 2' consistent
Wind : SE
Swell : 0.62 @ 12
Quality : cold but clean
Desperation level : nil
Recommendation : get out there

Bells rolls on

Taj out, Slater double fist claiming and clean well overhead waves, Bells has been cranking again today. Both the blokes and the girls got through a bucket load of heats. There were some massive scores (and some little one - Taj). Jordy's superman air is a highlight.



Its worth going to the event site and watching a few heats.

RIP CURL PRO BELLS BEACH ROUND 3 RESULTS:
Heat 1: Adriano de Souza (BRA) 12.33 def. Yadin Nicol (AUS) 9.60
Heat 2: John John Florence (HAW) 13.97 def. Matt Wilkinson (AUS) 9.63
Heat 3: Owen Wright (AUS) 13.77 def. Jadson Andre (BRA) 7.17
Heat 4: Josh Kerr (AUS) 15.17 def. Tiago Pires (PRT) 9.07
Heat 5: Jeremy Flores (FRA) 14.10 def. Bede Durbidge (AUS) 12.83
Heat 6: Kelly Slater (USA) 17.00 def. Nic Muscroft (AUS) 16.30
Heat 7: Kai Otton (AUS) 11.83 def. Taj Burrow (AUS) 6.54
Heat 8: Mick Fanning (AUS) 18.46 def. Raoni Monteiro (BRA) 15.20
Heat 9: C.J. Hobgood (USA) 16.70 def. Gabriel Medina (BRA) 15.60
Heat 10: Jordy Smith (ZAF) 15.43 def. Travis Logie (ZAF) 10.96
Heat 11: Brett Simpson (USA) 15.54 def. Damien Hobgood (USA) 12.53
Heat 12: Joel Parkinson (AUS) 18.94 def. Fredrick Patacchia (HAW) 17.37

RIP CURL PRO BELLS BEACH ROUND 4 RESULTS:
Heat 1: Owen Wright (AUS) 15.87, John John Florence (HAW) 15.00, Adriano de Souza (BRA) 14.93
Heat 2: Kelly Slater (USA) 18.50, Josh Kerr (AUS) 13.10, Jeremy Flores (FRA) 9.64
Heat 3: Mick Fanning (AUS) 18.20, C.J. Hobgood (USA) 10.83, Kai Otton (AUS) 10.33
Heat 4: Joel Parkinson (AUS) 17.27, Jordy Smith (ZAF) 15.60, Brett Simpson (USA) 7.00

RIP CURL PRO BELLS BEACH ROUND 5 MATCH-UPS:
Heat 1: John John Florence (HAW) vs. Jeremy Flores (FRA)
Heat 2: Josh Kerr (AUS) vs. Adriano de Souza (BRA)
Heat 3: Kai Otton (AUS) vs. Brett Simpson (USA)
Heat 4: Jordy Smith (ZAF) vs. C.J. Hobgood (USA)

RIP CURL PRO BELLS BEACH QUARTERFINAL MATCH-UPS:
QF 1: Owen Wright (AUS) vs. TBD
QF 2: Kelly Slater (USA) vs. TBD
QF 3: Mick Fanning (AUS) vs. TBD
QF 4: Joel Parkinson (AUS) vs. TBD

RIP CURL WOMEN’S PRO BELLS BEACH ROUND 3 RESULTS:
Heat 1: Tyler Wright (AUS) 16.74, , Sarah Mason (NZL) 14.50, Laura Enever (AUS) 14.00
Heat 2: Malia Manuel (HAW) 18.30, Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) 17.50, Paige Hareb (NZL) 10.34
Heat 3: Carissa Moore (HAW) 17.94, , Coco Ho (HAW) 12.60, Sofia Mulanovich (PER) 5.86
Heat 4: Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS) 15.90, Lakey Peterson (USA) 15.20, Courtney Conlogue (USA) 14.93

RIP CURL WOMEN’S PRO BELLS BEACH ROUND 4 MATCH-UPS:
Heat 1: Sarah Mason (NZL) vs. Paige Hareb (NZL)
Heat 2: Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) vs. Laura Enever (AUS)
Heat 3: Coco Ho (HAW) vs. Courtney Conlogue (USA)
Heat 4: Lakey Peterson (USA) vs. Sofia Mulanovich (PER)

RIP CURL WOMEN’S PRO BELLS BEACH QUARTERFINAL MATCH-UPS:
QF 1: Tyler Wright (AUS) vs. TBD
QF 2: Malia Manuel (HAW) vs. TBD
QF 3: Carissa Moore (HAW) vs. TBD
QF 4: Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS) vs. TBD

Soon

The wind has swung and is almost offshore. There is a handful of guys out at Juniors for the late and some waves with potential.

Tomorrow looks ok with a dying swell and SE winds.

Surf : 2 foot plus
Wind : SSE
Swell : 0.71 at 12 seconds and fading
Quality : choc milk with a lot of water moving but ok
Desperation level : it's already to late by the time you read this
Recommendation : tomorrow

I don't want to go to work !

I just want to sit inside and watch Bells. Round one has finished and Taj is in the water in his second round heat. He has already racked up a high eight on his first wave in the first few minutes.

The waves are clean and offshore but can be a little difficult to surf. Which is the opposite of here where it is massive and onshore. The six metre swell is already showing on the Naturaliste Buoy and still rising. Locally its 1.19 which is massive for the channel.

There will be waves on the Dunsborough side of the cape and it will help set some banks. However with the recent shark attacks and sightings many people will be a bit reluctant to venture out.

It looks like a few have been out at the Wall over the last couple of days and I although I haven't looked myself I suspect that it might have been ok. It would depend a little on the sand.

Surf : Big
Swell : 1.19 at 15 seconds
Wind : howling WNW
Quality : zip
Desperation level : as big as the swell
Recommendation : watch Bells on FuelTV or go to work/school

Round one almost done

Round 1 of the women was run in some pretty clean waves at Bells and then the wind made for some crumbly waves for most of the mens round one.



Taj was the only real seed to lose. Julian Wilson and Yadin Nichol both lost as well but all will get a second chance round two.

A massive swell was forecast before the event and they are still expecting some size in the next couple of days.

RIP CURL PRO BELLS BEACH ROUND 1 MATCH-UPS:
Heat 1: Jordy Smith (ZAF) 15.60, Kieren Perrow (AUS) 12.10, Fredrick Patacchia (HAW) 11.17
Heat 2: Owen Wright (AUS) 17.93, Patrick Gudauskas (USA) 14.97, Bede Durbidge (AUS) 13.50
Heat 3: Adriano de Souza (BRA) 16.00, Raoni Monteiro (BRA) 8.67, Taylor Knox (USA) 4.17
Heat 4: Joel Parkinson (AUS) 17.27, Kai Otton (AUS) 12.23, Adam Melling (AUS)
Heat 5: Nic Muscroft (AUS) 16.07, Kolohe Andino (USA) 14.06, Burrow (AUS) 11.10
Heat 6: Kelly Slater (USA) 13.70, Brett Simpson (USA) 10.33, Davey Cathels (AUS) 9.77
Heat 7: Jeremy Flores (FRA) 13.10, Julian Wilson (AUS) 10.23, Yadin Nicol (AUS) 6.66
Heat 8: Mick Fanning (AUS) 14.76, Gabriel Medina (BRA) 12.10, Jadson Andre (BRA) 9.80
Heat 9: Travis Logie (ZAF) 10.93, Adrian Buchan (AUS) 10.90, Josh Kerr (AUS) 8.50

REMAININING RIP CURL PRO BELLS BEACH ROUND 1 MATCH-UPS:
Heat 10: Michel Bourez (PYF), Damien Hobgood (USA), C.J. Hobgood (USA)
Heat 11: Alejo Muniz (BRA), John John Florence (HAW), Tiago Pires (PRT)
Heat 12: Heitor Alves (BRA), Miguel Pupo (BRA), Matt Wilkinson (AUS)

RIP CURL WOMEN’S PRO BELLS BEACH ROUND 1 RESULTS:
Heat 1: Laura Enever (AUS) 15.00, Paige Hareb (NZL) 12.83, Rebecca Woods (AUS) 9.67
Heat 2: Tyler Wright (AUS) 12.77, Malia Manuel (HAW) 11.17, Jacqueline Silva (BRA) 8.30
Heat 3: Lakey Peterson (USA) 14.17, Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) 14.17, Nikki Van Dijk (AUS) 12.90
Heat 4: Carissa Moore (AUS) 16.50, Pauline Ado (FRA) 10.43, Justine Dupont (FRA) 9.40
Heat 5: Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS) 18.84, Coco Ho (HAW) 15.50, Sage Erickson (USA) 11.90
Heat 6: Courtney Conlogue (USA) 15.93, Sofia Mulanovich (PER) 14.17, Sarah Mason (NZL) 12.57

RIP CURL WOMEN’S PRO BELLS BEACH ROUND 2 MATCH-UPS:
Heat 1: Coco Ho (HAW) vs. Rebecca Woods (AUS)
Heat 2: Malia Manuel (HAW) vs. Jacqueline Silva (BRA)
Heat 3: Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) vs. Nikki Van Dijk (AUS)
Heat 4: Sofia Mulanovich (PER) vs. Justine Dupont (FRA)
Heat 5: Paige Hareb (BRA) vs. Sage Erickson (USA)
Heat 6: Pauline Ado (FRA) vs. Sarah Mason (NZL)

Bells is on

Some nice clean conditions for round one of both the men and women. The girls are first and in the water now.

Changes

Seems like Autumn may have arrived. Yesterday was iffy and today has seen the first front of 2012.

It's howling onshore and messy but there is good size. There are a couple out at BP and another guy at Juniors.

The Juniors guy is getting some nice drops and a little sucky face before the wave flattens out. He pulled off a nice lip throw floater on a head height face just before I left.

I don't recommend that you bother, especially if you're not skilled. The water is messy and there are rips everywhere. With a bit of a surge the rocks that are normally on the waters edge are out a fair bit and hard to see until you hit them.

Size : solid head height sets
Wind : strong onshore WNW gusting to nearly 50 kph
Swell : 0.53 at 12 with seas 1.42
Desperation level : waterman
Recommendation : lounge chairs

Too late

Winds changed and while it's not strong it's enough to mess everything up.

The News media is reporting a fatal shark attack on a diver off Peppie beach. Details are sketchy about how far offshore or anything else.

Grom City

7.30 and already there are eight grooms clogging up the lineup. There is a little swell and the wind light. The waves are so so and there were a pile of people making a decision about whether to bother. I'm not at this stage.

Surf : 1 -2
Wind : variable and light but turning onshore at any time
Swell : 0.49 at 13 seconds
Quality : 6.32 out of 10
Desperation level : road rager
Recommendation : doesn't look good for the next week so go right now or don't bother

First fronts

The first cold fronts of 2012 should hit in the next few days.

There was a few out this afternoon sharing onshore waves. Nothing spectacular especially with the crowd numbers. I didn't bother, having gotten wet in minute conditions on Thursday.

Flat again

No waves and not looking that great short term. We never really got anything from the swell kick mid week so even though I got a handful on Thursday I still feel ripped off.

Come on Autumn bring some swell !

Waiting

Got a little surf this arvo after missing similar conditions yesterday.

The swell is small, has too much south and has a huge period between sets. The sets were the only rideable waves and there was a maximum of two per set. The time between sets felt like hours but was up to 15+ minutes. Blow it and it was a long wait.

The waves were short but fun and the water clean and still pretty warm

Swell : 0.35 @ 13 seconds
Size : 2 foot occasionally
Wind : South
Quality : fun but short
Desperation level : two flat weeks

Arhhhhhhh !!!!!!

The hinted at swell never arrived. In fact it has gotten smaller.

I'm over it !

Guess what

It's been flat for over a week now. The conditions, other than swell have been great but swell is the most important condition.

The long range forecast site shows a jump early next week, which will be good for the Margaret River Pro. Hopefully we'll get some in here.

As much as I'm wishing for the late season cyclones to drift south and pump us another northerly swell I'm not confident it will.

There might be a slight bump on the weekend but it is coming of 0.16 metres so needs some decent size to get waves moving. Fingers crossed.

Bookends

Saw the sun rise and set from the beach today. Sitting out the back you could look out to sea to a light golden surface or back at the beach and a full moon and pink water.

The swell and favourable winds have hung around all day although the tide is a bit iffy.

There was a bit of a crowd this afternoon but by 6.00 pm when I got there it was only me at Juniors and a couple on the reef.

There were some corners in between the closeouts. The bank is a bit suss and the takeoff was pretty shallow. There were some scary looking boils on each wave.

The swell hit 0.7 in the channel and 3 metres for a few hours at Naturaliste. But it's not meant to be around for long and the weekend looks hot and flat.

Watching brief

The predicted swell has started to show but the tide is way to low.

Worth waiting for a little while.

Surf : 2 foot-ish
Wind : turning SE
Swell : 0.64 @ 14 seconds
Quality : wobbly rock hopping closeouts
Desperation level : for the impatient
Recommendation : go south or wait a little

Taj wins

Taj has won the Quikie Pro in okay waves while Steph Gilmore won the Roxy

Taj snuck through in the final minute of his semi with Ace Buccan and then beat a consistently over scored Adriano DeSouza. Seems the ASP wants a Brazillian world champ ?

Lots of pros will be over for the Margaret River Masters before the next World Tour event at Bells at Easter.

Quik Pro on

Finals day for both Quiksilver events. The waves are small but very contestable.

Men's quarters started the day and both Slater and Parko are out. Taj is in the water at the moment and with less than three minutes to go he is down against Ace Buchan. He needs a big eight to win. And while I'm writing he's got it !

That means the semis are -
DeSouza v Kerr
Burrow v Smith

Women in the water. Some good finals coming up - Laura Enever vs Tyler Wright and Steph vs Sally will be killer.

Nearly

Nearly enough swell to get wet and nearly a low enough tide. But nearly isn't good enough.

Size : nearly 1 foot
Wind : offshore
Swell : 0.35 @ nearly 14
Desperation : good imagination
Recommendation : watch the Quik Pro

More Iggy

Two new videos from Cyclone Iggy courtesy of elsegoodproductions.com. Jay Davies and Taj get shacked in waves that are only slightly smaller than Bianca but way more gnarly.

iggy storm from Elsegoodproductions.com on Vimeo.

sneaky peaks from Elsegoodproductions.com on Vimeo.

Round three

Round three of the blokes and Mick Fanning is out. So too is John Florence but generally the top seed won each heat. That means TB through but Yadin out.

Round four is non-elimination.

QUIKSILVER PRO GOLD COAST ROUND 2 RESULTS:
HEAT 1: Owen Wright (AUS) 14.90 def. Matt Wilkinson (AUS) 14.50
HEAT 2: Josh Kerr (AUS) 15.50 def. Kieren Perrow (AUS) 14.90
HEAT 3: Adriano De Souza (BRA) 14.07 def. Kolohe Andino (USA) 12.74
HEAT 4: Michel Bourez (PYF) 14.36 def. Bede Durbidge (AUS) 10.83
HEAT 5: Heitor Alves (BRA) 15.07 def. Jeremy Flores (FRA) 12.84
HEAT 6: Kelly Slater (USA) 16.36 def. Fredrick Patacchia (HAW) 12.40
HEAT 7: Joel Parkinson (AUS) 13.50 def. Yadin Nicol (AUS) 12.27
HEAT 8: Miguel Pupo (BRA) 12.67 def. Mick Fanning (AUS) vs. 11.17
HEAT 9: Jordy Smith (ZAF) 14.83 def. Raoni Monterio (BRA) 12.20
HEAT 10: Julian Wilson (AUS) 18.57 def. Adam Melling (AUS) 15.63
HEAT 11: Adrian Buchan (AUS) 16.03 def. John John Florence (HAW) 13.60
HEAT 12: Taj Burrow (AUS) 14.20 def. Travis Logie (AUS) 13.16

UPCOMING QUIKSILVER PRO GOLD COAST ROUND 4 MATCH-UPS:
HEAT 1: Owen Wright (AUS), Josh Kerr (AUS), Adriano De Souza (BRA)
HEAT 2: Michel Bourez (PYF), Heitor Alves (BRA), Kelly Slater (USA)
HEAT 3: Joel Parkinson (AUS), Miguel Pupo (BRA), Jordy Smith (ZAF)
HEAT 4: Julian Wilson (AUS), Adrian Buchan (AUS) Taj Burrow (AUS)

ROXY PRO GOLD COAST ROUND 3 RESULTS:
HEAT 1: Tyler Wright (AUS) 16.20, Sarah Mason (NZL) 12.80, Silvana Lima (BRA) 9.63
HEAT 2: Laura Enever (AUS) 16.83, Paige Hareb (NZL) 14.07, Carissa Moore (HAW) 13.57
HEAT 3: Malia Manuel (HAW) 14.53, Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS) 12.90, Courtney Conlogue (USA) 10.64

Pre-dawn

Nice morning. Offshore and mid tide but not really enough swell. There is the odd little one if you are really really patient. The swell is meant to be fading.

Surf : 1 foot mac
Wind : SE
Swell : fix the buoy
Quality : 5+
Recommendation : work

Round two

Is done. Nothing really remarkable. No Hopgoods left but that's about it.

Taj takes on Travis Logie, who has been a bit of a nemesis in the past. Yadin has a tough heat against Parko.

QUIKSILVER PRO GOLD COAST ROUND 2 RESULTS:
HEAT 1: Joel Parkinson (AUS) 16.36 def. Garrett Parkes (AUS) 6.43
HEAT 2: Taj Burrow (AUS) 18.10 def. Dane Reynolds (USA) 16.06
HEAT 3: Yadin Nicol (AUS) 13.13 def. Gabriel Medina (BRA) 12.53
HEAT 4: Julian Wilson (AUS) 14.06 def. Kai Otton (AUS) 13.73
HEAT 5: Jordy Smith (ZAF) 17.43 def. Taylor Knox (USA) 12.33
HEAT 6: Travis Logie (ZAF) 15.30 def. Alejo Muniz (BRA) 13.03
HEAT 7: Josh Kerr (AUS) 17.60 def. Patrick Gudauskas (USA) 10.53
HEAT 8: Matt Wilkinson (AUS) 15.86 def. Damien Hobgood (USA) 10.33
HEAT 9: Jeremy Flores (FRA) 13.67 def. Jadson Andre (BRA) 12.07
HEAT 10: Kieren Perrow (AUS) 14.00 def. CJ Hobgood (USA) 13.84
HEAT 11: Bede Durbidge (AUS) 13.53 def. Tiago Pires (PRT) 10.73
HEAT 12: Kolohe Andino (USA) 14.33 def. Brett Simpson (USA) 13.87

UPCOMING QUIKSILVER PRO GOLD COAST ROUND 3 MATCH-UPS:
HEAT 1: Owen Wright (AUS) vs. Matt Wilkinson (AUS)
HEAT 2: Josh Kerr (AUS) vs. Kieren Perrow (AUS)
HEAT 3: Adriano De Souza (BRA) vs. Kolohe Andino (USA)
HEAT 4: Michel Bourez (PYF) vs. Bede Durbidge (AUS)
HEAT 5: Jeremy Flores (FRA) vs. Heitor Alves (BRA)
HEAT 6: Kelly Slater (USA) vs. Fredrick Patacchia (HAW)
HEAT 7: Joel Parkinson (AUS) vs. Yadin Nicol (AUS)
HEAT 8: Mick Fanning (AUS) vs. Miguel Pupo (BRA)
HEAT 9: Jordy Smith (ZAF) vs. Raoni Monterio (BRA)
HEAT 10: Julian Wilson (AUS) vs. Adam Melling (AUS)
HEAT 11: John John Florence (HAW) vs. Adrian Buchan (AUS)
HEAT 12: Taj Burrow (AUS) vs. Travis Logie (AUS)

Round two

Quikie Pro is running men's round two after finishing the same round in the women. Conditions are ok, a bit onshore but with enough long walls to get some big scores.

Taj and Yadin are both through to round three as is Julian Wilson.

Watch it on FuelTV or the net.

Too late

Onshore has come in and messed it up. Luckily I waited out the most feral of the crowd and got a couple of clean ones on the Kelvinator.

The board is a wave catcher and super fast. Unlike my other boards when you do get one it is short enough to short arc turn.

Glassy

Light offshore and glassy. The swell has dropped since yesterday but the crowd hasn't.

There is the odd wave off the reef and mostly close outs at Juniors. But catching them around the grom frothers will not be easy.

The south wester will be in sometime and stay all day.

Surf : big end of 1 foot
Swell : 3m+ at Naturaliste
Wind : offshore less than 10 kmh
Quality : mostly closeouts
Desperation : crowd control
Recommendation : up to you but don't wait

New season starts

The 2012 season started where it ended last year - with two surfers at opposite ends of their careers and ages smashing everyone in sight.

Both Slater and John Florence scored two nines in their heat wins in round one. Both mixed a deep barrel with a massive hack or figure eight cutback. Slater's first nine was his first wave of the ASP season and shows that 12 in 12 is only going to be stopped by him.

WA's veteran Taj Burrow and rookie Yadin Nichol both came second in their round one heats with respectable scores. The conditions were a bit hit and miss and whoever got the best wave was going to win. Taj will take on Dane "over-it" Reynolds and Yadin has Brazillian Gabe Medina.

The women also ran through round one. No real surprises in any of the heats.

Next call is 5.30 am our time tomorrow. It (like all of this years events) will be live on FuelTV as well as streamed on the net and either the ASP or Quiksilver apps.

QUIKSILVER PRO GOLD COAST ROUND 1 RESULTS:
HEAT 1: Adriano De Souza (BRA) 13.83, Taylor Knox (USA) 10.66, Kieren Perrow (AUS) 7.70
HEAT 2: Owen Wright (AUS) 12.37, Bede Durbidge (AUS) 12.34, Kai Otton (AUS) 10.37
HEAT 3: Raoni Monteiro (BRA) 11.63, Yadin Nicol (AUS) 10.37, Gabriel Medina (BRA) 9.60
HEAT 4: Fredrick Patacchia (HAW) 15.43, Taj Burrow (AUS) 11.43, Brett Simpson (USA) 11.27
HEAT 5: Adam Melling (AUS) 15.70, Joel Parkinson (AUS) 15.43, Dane Reynolds (USA) 14.90
HEAT 6: Kelly Slater (USA) 18.80, Garrett Parkes (AUS) 12.73, Kolohe Andino (USA) 10.60
HEAT 7: Adrian Buchan (AUS) 11.83, Julian Wilson (AUS) 11.83, Travis Logie (ZAF) 8.67
HEAT 8: Miguel Pupo (BRA) 12.00, Jordy Smith (ZAF) 11.96, Patrick Gudauskas (USA) 11.60
HEAT 9: Heitor Alves (BRA) 14.36, Matt Wilkinson (AUS) 14.17, Alejo Muniz (BRA) 10.87
HEAT 10: Michel Bourez (PYF) 12.77, Jeremy Flores (FRA) 11.67, Jadson Andre (BRA) 8.00
HEAT 11: Mick Fanning (AUS) 15.26, Josh Kerr (AUS) 13.67, CJ Hobgood (USA) 11.84
HEAT 12: John John Florence (HAW) 19.60, Damien Hobgood (USA) 16.50, Tiago Pires (PRT) 12.50

QUIKSILVER PRO GOLD COAST ROUND 2 MATCH-UPS:
HEAT 1: Joel Parkinson (AUS) VS. Garrett Parkes (AUS)
HEAT 2: Taj Burrow (AUS) VS. Dane Reynolds (USA)
HEAT 3: Gabriel Medina (BRA) VS. Yadin Nicol (AUS)
HEAT 4: Julian Wilson (AUS) VS. Kai Otton (AUS)
HEAT 5: Jordy Smith (ZAF) VS. Taylor Knox (USA)
HEAT 6: Alejo Muniz (BRA) VS. Travis Logie (ZAF)
HEAT 7: Josh Kerr (AUS) VS. Patrick Gudauskas (USA)
HEAT 8: Damien Hobgood (USA) VS. Matt Wilkinson (AUS)
HEAT 9: Jeremy Flores (FRA) VS. Jadson Andre (BRA)
HEAT 10: Kieren Perrow (AUS) VS. CJ Hobgood (USA)
HEAT 11: Bede Durbidge (AUS) VS. Tiago Pires (PRT)
HEAT 12: Brett Simpson (USA) VS. Kolohe Andino (USA)

ROXY PRO GOLD COAST ROUND 1 RESULTS:
HEAT 1: Malia Manuel (HAW) 10.24, Silvana Lima (BRA) 8.73, Courtney Conlogue (USA) 8.10
HEAT 2: Tyler Wright (AUS) 17.70, Lakey Peterson (USA) 12.26, Pauline Ado (FRA) 7.33
HEAT 3: Carissa Moore (HAW) 13.73, Rebecca Woods (AUS) 11.33, Philippa Anderson (AUS) 11.33
HEAT 4: Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS) 14.64, Paige Hareb (NZL) 10.10, Sarah Mason (NZL) 7.94
HEAT 5: Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) 14.33, Sage Erickson (USA) 13.70, Laura Enever (AUS) 6.40
HEAT 6: Sofia Mulanovich (PER) 12.73, Coco Ho (HAW) 12.13, Jacqueline Silva (BRA) 7.54

Crowds

Fair old crowd this morning. There was 15 at seven and there is more than twenty now.

There are two swells in the water, a short period wind swell and longer period ground swell. This means there are lots of waves coming in as twos.

The reef was good earlier and two goofies were ripping it up. Juniors has now taken the bulk of the crowd as the onshore starts to pick up.

It's pretty messy, very crowded and not that great. I didn't enjoy it but you might. Don't wait to long.

Kick

The swell has kicked up to over four metres on the Naturaliste buoy but the onshore has wrecked it all day.

The weather forecast for tomorrow isn't much better and Sunday is mostly iffy. Maybe Monday early if the swell hangs around.

Morning

A bit of fast moving but messy swell in the water this morning. Juniors is the "pick" at about 2 foot. The wind is from the south and strong enough to be messing things up. There are white caps on the horizon so it is here to stay.

If you want to get wet and are prepared paddle for lots but get few you will probably get a face or two. It's not good enough to waste a sickie on though.

Size : 1 - 2
Wind : southerly
Swell : who knows - the buoy is offline again
Quality : 6 out of 10 - sloppy
Desperation level : bored
Recommendation : don't give up something for this

Virgin

Finally got the Yahoo Kelvinator wet but only just.

There is a building swell showing this afternoon but the combination of the onshore winds and the sand from no waves for a few weeks made it unsurfable.

I tried in vain to find a corner but it was basically shore dumpers. I did get to my feet for nano seconds on three waves but that was it.

The forecast is for a swell building to three metres by strongish onshores as well. Naturaliste is already up to 2.5 and climbing. I can hear the wind and waves through my window but it's not sounding good.

Glimmer of hope for a Sunday LAGO.

Draining

The flat spell continues. No swell and no breeze to either make some or give some wind wave release. The swell buoy has been out of action for a few days but would be pretty straight lined.

There is a glimmer with the passing of a weak front tomorrow. The swell is meant to rise to 2.5 metres but the winds will be onshore. We'll just need to hold our breath and wait.

Some days

You just aren't destined to get wet.

There was new board surfable wind wave at Juniors and plenty of kiters. That's the positive before the conspiracy began.

First I get stuck a work when I should have been home. My wife is crook so I had to get some shopping, walk the dogs and cook tea. Tea could wait till after waves but the others needed to be done first.

Straight to the shops, grab the groceries and use the self service checkout. The most important thing when shopping is to have cash or a transaction card or a credit card. I opened my wallet to find none of these and remembered them on my bedside table.

Back home. Take the dogs to run amuck. My plan is to let them run themselves around till they are puffed, which shouldn't be long.

Instead they pissed off up the beach and wouldn't come back. When they did they disappeared up the other way. By the time I could grab them it was too late to go out.

So the Kelvinator remains unridden.

0.17 at 20 seconds, seas 0.76

Woof

Just back from taking my dogs for their morning walk and poop.

It's still flat. No swell at all.

The forecast is for a sea breeze but it doesn't look that good even for a wind wave. The next few days don't look much better.

Surf : flat
Wind : light
Swell : 0.28 @ 14
Desperation level : impossible to be this desperate
Recommendation : work or school

Waiting

Onshore dribble for the second day in a row. To make it worse I have a new board sitting in the garage waiting for its maiden voyage.

The Yahoo Kelvinator is a 6'4" x 23" x 3" quad. It has more foam and volume than my mini-mal and should be Taylor made for Bunbury.

This is my 10th Mark Ogram board and I have never been disappointed with either the way they ride or the quality. Yahoo surfboards are in Clarke Steet Dunsborough or check them on the net. Best boards in WA.

Slow Mo

Some new footage from some hi-tech slow mo cameras. The definition has you ignoring the surfing and watching individual drops of water.

DAY DREAMING from Rick Rifici on Vimeo.

More Surfing Videos

Sundays

Low tide and a small southerly swell in the water. No real waves but two groms out at Juniors anyway.

The forecast is for 3.5 metres but the direction is a little wrong. Currently its dipping to 0.35 at 15 seconds at buoy 10.

Gone

Now that I have a break to go surfing the swell had disappeared. It was there at 8.30 with the crowd and there at 11.00 with the two SUPs but it ain't there now.

The wind is strengthening from the south.

I'm a bit annoyed.

Winter

Cold and damp.

The swell has dropped but there are still a few waves around. There is a fair sized crowd for the consistency and most are sitting on the reef.

The wind is quite strong and with a lot of south in it. It's making the waves wobbly and the tide is a bit high.

If you didn't get any yesterday it's worth a paddle provided you can accept only getting one or two.

Size : 2' with the very odd bigger one
Wind : SSE
Swell : 0.49 @ 12
Quality : wobbly
Desperation level : can you handle a crowd of kooks ?
Recommendation : worth a paddle if you have nothing to do

Footage

A few pics from this afternoon. The swell has stuck around but the crowd really built up. I'm glad that I got it first thing to myself. The waves were about the same and the lulls as long but I only had to battle myself for the sets. There was plenty of drop in and the frustration level was high. The warm weather seemed to bring out a few kooks who didn't know the rules.

0.71 at 12 seconds

Still

Plenty of waves. The mysto BP right is firing as is Juniors and the reef.

Bit of a crowd though.

0.69 at 11

Cyclone swell ?

Glassy, light ESE winds and a decent north swell. What are you waiting for ?

I have just had the best Juniors of the summer so far with no one out. The swell is clean and wally. The only problem is the long, long wait between sets. At the top of the range the waves are chest height and driving across the reef to dump you on the southern rocks.

Size : up to 3 foot
Wind : ESE
Swell : 0.56 at 13 seconds
Desperation level : low - get out there
Recommendation : hit it

Rain

Quick bit of rain and a strong gust of wind about 9.00 pm. The harbour buoy is rising quickly and is over 0.4,although Naturaliste isn't going up that sharply. It looks like there is a fair whack of north in it so we might be getting it first. Some of the cloud is from Cyclone Iggy, which is heading down past Carnarvon, so maybe we'll get some swell on the weekend from it. The forecast is for showers, offshores and up to three metres of swell for tomorrow. I'm always disappointed when I hype myself up for waves but my blistered feet might keep me out of the water and guarantee waves for everyone else. Plus school is back - no groms.