The nice blue sky has tempted a few out. The waves are better than this morning but that's not hard.
You could probably get one or two if you wanted. There seems to be a new swell in the water so every now and then a bigger one comes through.
I just finished watching "Come hell or high water", the Malloy brothers new movie on body surfing. It is a really high quality flick and more meaty that the normal surf porn. That charged me up so I had a mid- afternoon session at Juniors on my hand plane.
Looks like some bad weather over the next few days but the weekend looks ok. It is a long way out to be to confident though.
0.48 @ 14
Showing posts with label Malloys. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Malloys. Show all posts
Sunday, June 24, 2012
Sunday, March 27, 2011
Hoax
0.45 when I got up this morning but it is flater than yesterday. In the last couple of hours it has dropped to 0.35 and looks like it is heading straight down.
Despite the lack of swell and an ocean full of jelly fish I went out with 1.1 at Barnacles. Being so small it was breaking on the dry suck. My first "wave" saw me out of position and taking off late. I got smashed, the hand board got ripped off my hand and the strap torn off the bolts, my head collided with a rock followed shortly by my shoulder. Luckily it was only about six inches heigh so other than the strap there was no real damage. If it had been bigger I wouldn't have been taking off there anyway.
Treaded water for ages for two more dribblers and gave up.
Like I said earlier this week the hand plane has kept me sane during the worst summer I can remember. If you don't body surf you should try it and see what you are missing. If you start now and do it every day until you die you might be half as good as Mark Cunningham (who features in this trailer for a new Malloys film). One of my surfing aims is to be able to body surf underwater and be dragged along like a seal (but not eaten by a shark !).
Despite the lack of swell and an ocean full of jelly fish I went out with 1.1 at Barnacles. Being so small it was breaking on the dry suck. My first "wave" saw me out of position and taking off late. I got smashed, the hand board got ripped off my hand and the strap torn off the bolts, my head collided with a rock followed shortly by my shoulder. Luckily it was only about six inches heigh so other than the strap there was no real damage. If it had been bigger I wouldn't have been taking off there anyway.
Treaded water for ages for two more dribblers and gave up.
Like I said earlier this week the hand plane has kept me sane during the worst summer I can remember. If you don't body surf you should try it and see what you are missing. If you start now and do it every day until you die you might be half as good as Mark Cunningham (who features in this trailer for a new Malloys film). One of my surfing aims is to be able to body surf underwater and be dragged along like a seal (but not eaten by a shark !).
Come Hell or High Water Trailer from Woodshed Films on Vimeo.
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