Sorry

Been really slack keeping the blog up to date in the last few months. I've found Twitter and it is so much more convenient for those quick updates. I won't lie and say that I'll try harder to post but rest assured I haven't abandoned the blog.

I hope you were nice to your mother today because there could be some waves tomorrow. The blow earlier in the week has pushed some sand around and there looks to be the odd gutter here and there. BP Groyne has some of the summer sand washed away and there was just the glimmer of a shape there this afternoon.

The water will probably still be brown and there is plenty of weed around as well. I had a SUP at Fraggles this afternoon, catching a couple of waves to make a very inconsistent and difficult session worth it. However the short dump was pretty ferocious and thick with weed. Needless to say I had to duck under a triple up and came out looking like something from a horror movies. There were even things swimming in the water left in the hand well of my SUP !

The swell is dropping but is still around 0.55. It might not be big tomorrow but its a bit hard to tell how much the onshore today was blowing down the waves.

Day Three - 26/12/12

No good news today. Even flatter than yesterday and when the overnight wind wobble disappears it will be flatter again.

The tide is super low but on the plus side there is some nice looking banks hanging around. The sand is quickly filling in around the groyne and is nearing the tip.

Day 3 - 26/12/12 (6.00 am)

Waves : Ant sets

Wind : S - 11 kph gusting to 17 kph

Swell : 0.15 @ 11

Quality : 0.2 out of 10

Clean

Clean but a little cool down the beach at the moment. The swell has come up but the banks are a bit straight. The groyne looked pretty good from a distance.

The wind is meant to be variable but swing SW by early morning so don't wait too long.

0.65 @ 12

Finally

A bit of swell around and the wind is light and sort of offshore. There's not much in the way of shape but the bank at Juniors and the groyne are dropping in the odd wall here and there for the desperate.

Wouldn't wait to long as it's likely to be onshore for most of the day.

0.6 @ 13 seconds

Lazy arvo

A few out enjoying the warmth this afternoon. It wasn't good enough to overcome the guilt given by my dogs who had been home alone all day so it was a walk rather than wet.

The wind this morning was really north and the swell has dropped but it glassed off under the cloudy skies this afternoon. It was pretty small but there was a guy out at the rip at Juniors throwing some big moves.

The two older guys at the reef were getting some very shallow lefts and the guy at the groyne the odd short but punchy right.

The forecast is for north east turning north west early tomorrow morning and then two days of rain.

0.46 @ 12

Pushers

A few little waves dribbling in along the beachies. The swell is pretty small but the conditions are nice.

There isn't much power anywhere but if you have something with length or volume you will get a few clean faces. Body boarders should head for the Bay where the wedge should be working.

Doesn't matter where you go because there are peaks of some kind everywhere between Hungry Hollow and the BP Groyne.

0.31 @ nearly 12

Fat

There is some waves again at BP and Juniors. They are a bit ruffled and full but sucking on the shallow insides. The wind is light with a little bit of an onshore feel due to the north in it.

Not perfect but if you want to get wet do it soon. Personally I'd go the beachies or the groyne but there is something for everyone and every type of board.

0.52 @ 11 seconds

Dropped

The swell has dropped a little but there are a few waves at BP. Its pretty cold, the wind is calm and the water brown.

The rips or the groyne are the go but I wouldn't wait to long. There is another front due this evening and the wind should be swinging into the north west by mid morning.

Judging by what I saw yesterday there should be a few corners at Back Beach into the gutters.

Looks onshore until Saturday morning at this stage.

0.79 @ 12

Thick

There are some reasonable but chunky waves at the groyne and out of a rip at BP.  It looks like hard work as there is a lot of water moving around and the rips go out a long way. Not for the newbies.

0.87 @ 12

Spring

Day 1 of Spring and we have perfect Spring weather - sunny one minute, raining the next. Winter was a complete dud again but we will still probably get some more bad weather in the next few weeks. There were no real banks formed anywhere.

Every year that I have lived here (and that is quite a few) we've had a nice bank at the Clam but there hasn't been a single Clam day so far this year.

The Wall had some nice sand but not enough swell. The Groyne has had a day or two and Fraggles maybe an hour or two. The plus was the rip bank at Juniors but only for a week or so. BP Reef continues to be MIA and if you tell people that it was once the most consistent winter wave and broke off the back bombie they think you are on drugs !

There is no surf today as you would have already guessed. There has been four surfable hours all week and if you were on it quickly enough you could have had some fun. But I'm guessing most people (including me) just wrote the week off.

The seven day forecast has onshores till next Friday.

0.98 @ 13 seconds, seas 1.09.

No hurry

Bit late with the post but the waves were iffy anyway. There is some swell and the banks at Juniors, BP and the groyne are still squeezing out lefts and rights.

The wind was flukey with a fair bit of north in it and is still light. If you still want to get wet you'll probably still get a wave or two.

If you're wondering where the Billabong Pro updates are the event has been on hold since day two due to a complete lack of swell. The forecast is for a bump over the next two days, the last of the waiting period.

0.57 @13

Looks ok

Some glassy conditions and a swell that has started to straighten up today.

I didn't get to the beach till late but I saw a few out at the groyne while I was driving around and some waves coming in at Juniors on sunset. Seems the bank and rip are still hanging in there.

Tomorrow looks ok on the forecast with light offshores early. The wind looks light most of the day but will swing onshore. Sunday looks very iffy.

0.59 @ 13

Missed opportunities

Some nice waves this morning out of the rip at Juniors and at BP groyne. The winds were light, tide mid to full and the crowd a manageable five.

I was meant to be heading south this morning but my cold won't get better (or worse) and has given me infectious eye boggers. So not being allowed to work means no trip south.

The wind has just swung to the south and cranked into double figures. It looks like it will be onshore for the rest of the day, although the forecast does leave a little wiggle room for a late afternoon glass off.

The rip looks like it is around for a little while. Its the split personality of ocean currents. It is making the waves A frame and hold up into the channels but drags you out past the take off point and spits you down the beach. There is a lot more paddling than surfing !

The wind conditions look ok for tomorrow but on a pretty quickly dropping swell.

0.61 @ 11

Glassy

Glassy with light and variable winds.

The swell is still around and pretty consistent with some nice walls coming out of the Juniors rip and off the groyne.

0.79 @ 12

Typical

Clean, offshore and some decent banks. But I'm crook so its photos only !

A few guys out at Juniors and the groyne getting some nice rides. Get out there if you can.

0.63 @ 12 and steady

LAGO-ish

Light onshore winds late this afternoon and a decent size swell. Some guys out at the BP Groyne getting the odd one between sets on the head and closeouts.

Fraggles looked like it was pumping but when you looked it was hours between waves. Long time to be dangling your feet in the dark copping sinkers on the head from the fisherman so no one was there.

Down at the Bay a couple of guys were using jet ski assist to overcome the wash.

0.8 @ 11

Tough

Been a tough few days weather wise but it backed off a big today. A few guys too the chance to get wet from below rather than above.

There is shit loads of water washing around the place and some weird banks forming at the groyne. Hopefully the next few days will calm a little and let the sand settle .

The seven day forecast has some offshore windows and calm periods so you might need to be ready to take a dip at short notice. It will be one of those weekend where you have to check it a few times over the day.

The guys at BP late this arvo were trying to get some of the corners on offer but it was a lot harder than it looked.

Hey come over here !

0.64 @ 11

Hurry

Just got wet walking the dogs but the plus is the sideways motion at BP. Its flukey but looks like some clean NE corners if you can get the right one. Only three booger grooms out.

The groyne looks ok and so does some of the peaks on the beachie.

It is super clean and glassy but the rain has set in already and the forecast is for 30/40 knot winds with 50 knot squalls by early afternoon as a big low moves in.

If you want to get wet now is probably the only time in the next few days as the bad weather is here to stay.

Fibber

Even as I wrote the post this morning I had just a sneaking suspicion that the northerly might bring some sideways action this afternoon. And it sort of did.

I got a few fun ones at BP Groyne late this afternoon. They were pretty small but fun. There was a plenty of wall but the wind swell was pretty gutless. The glassy conditions and the clear water made it a little hard to see down the line at times !

I didn't deliberately lie but I did get it to myself !

Still cranking

Consistent head height sets at Juniors, the reef and the groyne. There is truckloads of power but most waves are short or not makeable. The crowd is big and the skill level pretty low, making it hard to get a proper read on the quality.

Surf : head height
Swell : 0.67 @ 12
Quality : smashing
Recommendation : look and judge for yourself