Friday's rock

I've said it before - there can't be a bad Friday afternoon surf. Today was no exception.

I deliberately ignored the beach first up this morning because I was pretty sure it would have been ok and I had to start work early. At lunch time I had to drive past and there was swell and offshore-ish winds. I wasn't betting on it still being ok when I finished work as the wind looked like it wanted to swing.

But by five-ish when I took the Kelvinator and the belly board to BP it was still offshore, the water was crystal clear and there was only a SUP and a couple of body boarders out. I started at Juniors but it wasn't really doing it so I paddled across to the reef.

The waves were good if very inconsistent. I caught a few wally lefts and nearly killed myself going for a floater on the end section which was dumping onto nearly bare rocks. Not only did the water disappear but my board turning into a slide, fins up ! Luckily no damage to me or more importantly the board.

After my fill I took my DIY belly board out for a couple of insiders at Juniors and it slid like a champ !

The water was clear, the temperature just right and the sun out. The perfect way to wash away a work week, especially when I have next week off.

Fridays

I think I have said it before but there are few things I like more than getting into the ocean on a Friday afternoon. Especially that moment when you duck dive and see the setting sun glow through the falling lip. Very zen.

Today two groms were sharing little runners of what is normally a winter bank off the end of the southern rocks at Juniors. Not great but they were enjoying themselves.

I took hand plane version 2.0 for its first spin but stupidly left my fins at home. That made it very difficult to get into waves early enough to set a line before they closed out. The jury is out on this new board. It rode a little soft and didn't seem t want to bite into the face. I'm leaning towards the quality of the waves and the lack of drive from fins as being the probable cause. We'll see.

It looks like a little front may brush past over the weekend. Winds should have some north in them. Apparently the secret spot that shows up in all of Taj's Cyclone Bianca footage was breaking again on with Sunday's little northerly pulse and TB, CJ and the Snake were all over it, probably recovering from the Margaret River celebrations the night before.