Been a while

Moved away from the blog towards the ease and immediacy of twitter and Instagram (@bunburysurf1).

A conversation there made me think about maybe blogging again. I'll think about it and see how much time I can spare. 

Some pics from today's swell.

Weather

Very dark over the horizon, Busselton and the Cape. On the radar Bunbury is in a bit of a clear hole for now but the wind suggests that we might get rained on soon.

The tide is really high, lapping at the dunes around Juniors and the wind from the NW. There is the some sideways wave action but it would be hard to catch and pretty shifty. If you're keen and quick you could probably pick up the odd one but it will be hard work.

Swell - 0.36 @ 13
Sea - north 0.90
Wind - NNE 12-20 kmh

Dawn

Some swell hanging around on a decent tide and glassy conditions. If you can get out soon you should jag the odd one at Juniors and very rare one off the reef. Barnacles is super sucky on the take off but running through to the beach due to some recent sand movement. All you groms on school holidays should try there.

Magic sunrise this morning with the ocean pink and the other side bright yellow.

0.37 @ 12

Runs

The best run of swell that I can remember in ages. Its dropping now but could still be ok tomorrow. Not only was the swell strong but it was warm and mostly offshore as well. The only problem was the crowds and their lack of understanding of surfing etiquette, especially "one surfer per wave". At 6.30 this morning there was 15 out at BP Reef and at 4.30 this arvo the whole BP carpark was full, with a steady 30 in the water. When one got out another got in. And it has been like that for every daylight minute since Saturday morning.

This has kept me out of the water a bit over the period but I had to get wet this afternoon. Despite sitting deep and dangerous on the reef at Juniors I caught six waves and got drop in on twice. To rub it in both failed to make the drop (they never were going to make it), causing me to straighten out straight at the rocks. And it wasn't a case of us being next to each other, I had been up and riding and about to hit their section when they paddled in. One was actually trying to go left while I was riding at him ???? To rub it in one booger sat inside me and called me out of a wave he was too deep for and then stopped paddling !!!!

The proper take offs for the three breaks are shallow, sucky and very small. You can't straighten out because the reef in front of you is less than fin deep. The drop in kooks are safe on the shoulder. If I didn't care about my boards I would just run them over.

Unlike a couple of older guys at BP Reef who hog every wave despite not being greatly skilled, I only catch a small number of waves. I'm picky on which one I want and like to day generally let the first wave of the set go through. If you've waited your turn regardless of how long since my last wave, the next set is yours (just don't screw it up). The guys dropping in on me today probably got 25 waves each in the time I got 6 but still they wanted the ones I was on. I love surfing but just can't deal with this lack of awareness and manners.

My simple message -

IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE SKILL TO SIT INSIDE, GET OUT OF THE WAY OF THOSE WHO DO

0.49 @ 13 and dropping

Arvo glass

The swell is picking up and the winds offshore. BP Reef has some nice lefts and Juniors has some now and there.

I won't tell you its classic because its not. Its ok if you have nothing to do or are hanging in out for a wave (like me). If you are a grom, get on it. Theres been groms out all morning and they are loving it.

0.48 @ 12 and rising. ESE winds 13 - 26 kmh

Sidewinders

Strong southerly this afternoon pushed some little 45 degree wedges towards the beach. As usual with that angle the looked good but were both impossible to catch and with impossible wonks and sections in them.  However two bodyboard groms at Juniors were frothing and getting all the best waves.

Off the back beach two clubbies were having a ball catching runners on their surf skis. Would have been a bastard paddling into the wind but fun linking green waves back.

Wednesday and Thursday both look promising on the forecast. The southerlies might have even blown in a little bank or two.

Wednesday 13 March

Winds

East to southeasterly 15 to 25 knots.

Seas

1.5 to 2.5 metres, decreasing below 1.5 metres during the morning.

Swell

Southwesterly 2 to 3 metres, decreasing to 1.5 to 2 metres during the morning.

Thursday 14 March

Winds

East to southeasterly 15 to 25 knots.

Seas

1.5 metres, increasing to 1 to 2 metres during the morning.

Swell

Southwesterly 1.5 to 2 metres, increasing to 2 to 3 metres.

Weather

Scattered thunderstorms.

The harbour buoy is out of service again. Judging by the excuses for closing the path to the Bay the BPA will probably that they aren't preventing anyone from getting the swell reading they just need their own buoy.

Back

Back from my trip away. Nothing much to write about locally. There were some desperadoes out this afternoon in chunky but marginal surf. However good surfers can overcome poor conditions with three guys getting some decent moves in the slop. A few landed airs, big reos and odd 360.

Unfortunately for two blokes it was quite hard to get out and despite their best efforts they didn't make it. There was a lot of water moving around, strange tide and lots of rocks so there was no loss of pride from missing out.

0.70 @ 12

New swell

The long awaited swell is showing in the water. The tide is still low so there are lots of dry suck take offs and closeouts but there is the odd fun corner at Juniors for a hot summer day. However you have to be prepared for long flat waits in between sets.

0.48 at a long 16 seconds and building.

Don't forget you can get more surf reports by following me @bunburysurf on twitter.

Barnacles and belly boards

Not much in the way of surf today. However there was the odd period for micro-groms and desperadoes. The wind came in early from the south but was gusty and swung around a little.

I had a late morning belly board session at Barnacles. As usually it was dry sucking but I got a couple of fun rides. The water was crystal clear and warm and the sky blue.

A few had a frustrating session late this afternoon. There was a foot of swell but the direction was all wrong. It did look like you could get a wall or two but didn't pan out that way.

0.29 @ 11

Friday's rock

I've said it before - there can't be a bad Friday afternoon surf. Today was no exception.

I deliberately ignored the beach first up this morning because I was pretty sure it would have been ok and I had to start work early. At lunch time I had to drive past and there was swell and offshore-ish winds. I wasn't betting on it still being ok when I finished work as the wind looked like it wanted to swing.

But by five-ish when I took the Kelvinator and the belly board to BP it was still offshore, the water was crystal clear and there was only a SUP and a couple of body boarders out. I started at Juniors but it wasn't really doing it so I paddled across to the reef.

The waves were good if very inconsistent. I caught a few wally lefts and nearly killed myself going for a floater on the end section which was dumping onto nearly bare rocks. Not only did the water disappear but my board turning into a slide, fins up ! Luckily no damage to me or more importantly the board.

After my fill I took my DIY belly board out for a couple of insiders at Juniors and it slid like a champ !

The water was clear, the temperature just right and the sun out. The perfect way to wash away a work week, especially when I have next week off.

Colour me surprised

More swell in the water than looked from the beach. Plenty of north but it was mixed with some west and a bit of onshore wind. The tide is surging a bit but the take off spots are pretty shallow.

The mix of directions made for some interesting wedges which hit different parts of the reef depending on how they eventually rolled through. I got a couple with shoulder height take offs that surged to the beach. Definitely worth the paddle, especially with a crowd of shoulder hoppers that were out of position for all the good ones.

It doesn't look pretty like Bianca or Iggy so you won't see any photos from me.

0.53 @ 12

Sticky

What a weird day. At 6.30am I was tossing up whether to go for a body surf, at 7.30 am I was walking to work in a swirling gale and just beating the rain. Lunch time was stinking hot, the walk home even worse. Then at about 6.00 pm I was paddling around under sleet grey skies in dribble.

The biggest surprise was that there was a crowd. There were no waves but there was a crowd !

I took my latest contraption for its maiden voyage. Made from a shelf from a wardrobe we threw out, ply and cedar. The waves were gutless but I got enough to be positive. The downside was that some of the glue didn't hold but nothing that can't be quickly fixed.

0.34 @ 11

Grey

After some rain first up the day has stayed pretty grey. The wind is from the north and there is a nice bit of swell. The waves are a bit hit and miss but there is the odd one between the rocks, weed and closeouts.

It's worth keeping an eye out if you want to get wet.

0.49 @ 12

Two for two

Got a fun session after work today. The wind wasn't to strong and the waves were hitting Juniors at a good angle. Size was around chest height on take off and there were some sucky sections linking together.

The forecast is for a big spike in swell tomorrow and Friday, possibly hitting five metres at Naturaliste. Winds will be onshore though. Saturday looks ok with the swell dropping to two to three metres and offshore winds. The temp will also be back in the 30s.

0.59 @ 12 and rising

New Year

Started the new year with a pre-work grovel at Juniors. The north wester is already in and the swell is still small. I got a couple worth standing up on and you can never complain about a dawnie.

0.33 @ 11

Day Three - 26/12/12

No good news today. Even flatter than yesterday and when the overnight wind wobble disappears it will be flatter again.

The tide is super low but on the plus side there is some nice looking banks hanging around. The sand is quickly filling in around the groyne and is nearing the tip.

Day 3 - 26/12/12 (6.00 am)

Waves : Ant sets

Wind : S - 11 kph gusting to 17 kph

Swell : 0.15 @ 11

Quality : 0.2 out of 10

Day Two - 25/12/12

All I want for Christmas is a bit of swell.

I must have been naughty because it was flat this morning although the conditions were nice for a swim  or micro groms to paddle their Chrissie presents.

I chose to take the SUP out after a very big breakie with the family and the wind had swung. Still mastering it so ended in the drink a couple of times.

Merry and safe Christmas to you and your family.



Day 2 - 25/12/12 (11.00 am)
Waves : Foot slappers
Wind : WSW - 15 kph gusting to 20 kph
Swell : 0.22 @ 11
Quality : 1 out of 10

7 Waves in 7 Day 2012

I end every year by taking a photographic record of seven days in the life of Juniors and BP (click here for previous years). It was an idea I stole from an Australian Surfing Life video. Today is day one.

The surf is a little disappointing. The wind is offshore and quite strong and tide is good but the swell that was around in the poor weekend conditions has disappeared. It might be worth keeping an eye on but probably not.

Day 1 - 24/12/12 (6.30 am)
Waves : Ankle slappers
Wind : E - 11 kph gusting to 20 kph
Swell : 0.41 @ 11
Quality : 3 out of 10

Almost Summer

Nice weather and still a little swell.

The tide is filling in and Juniors is starting to show a little shape. The beachies at BP on the other hand have disappeared after showing some form early.

The wind is still offshore and probably will be for most of the day. If you have nothing to do it might be worth a float around.

0.35 @ 12

Update

Some pics from now.