Runs

The best run of swell that I can remember in ages. Its dropping now but could still be ok tomorrow. Not only was the swell strong but it was warm and mostly offshore as well. The only problem was the crowds and their lack of understanding of surfing etiquette, especially "one surfer per wave". At 6.30 this morning there was 15 out at BP Reef and at 4.30 this arvo the whole BP carpark was full, with a steady 30 in the water. When one got out another got in. And it has been like that for every daylight minute since Saturday morning.

This has kept me out of the water a bit over the period but I had to get wet this afternoon. Despite sitting deep and dangerous on the reef at Juniors I caught six waves and got drop in on twice. To rub it in both failed to make the drop (they never were going to make it), causing me to straighten out straight at the rocks. And it wasn't a case of us being next to each other, I had been up and riding and about to hit their section when they paddled in. One was actually trying to go left while I was riding at him ???? To rub it in one booger sat inside me and called me out of a wave he was too deep for and then stopped paddling !!!!

The proper take offs for the three breaks are shallow, sucky and very small. You can't straighten out because the reef in front of you is less than fin deep. The drop in kooks are safe on the shoulder. If I didn't care about my boards I would just run them over.

Unlike a couple of older guys at BP Reef who hog every wave despite not being greatly skilled, I only catch a small number of waves. I'm picky on which one I want and like to day generally let the first wave of the set go through. If you've waited your turn regardless of how long since my last wave, the next set is yours (just don't screw it up). The guys dropping in on me today probably got 25 waves each in the time I got 6 but still they wanted the ones I was on. I love surfing but just can't deal with this lack of awareness and manners.

My simple message -

IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE SKILL TO SIT INSIDE, GET OUT OF THE WAY OF THOSE WHO DO

0.49 @ 13 and dropping

Sheeple

Still a little swell around but the tide is killing it. But that hasn't stopped a pile of people heading out this morning.

Now my whinge. Most days Barnacles just roles through minding its own business without any even looking at it. Its tricky and short and usually results in you losing a fin or two.

There are probably five people who regularly surf Barnacles and they usually do it to get away from the crowds at Juniors or off the reef. Eden is one of those and he went out this morning. There is one wave sets maybe every ten minutes and they are only just rideable on the tide. Fifteen minutes later there are four booogers and a short board paddling out to sit on him. If he wasn't out they would have been with the other five on the reef or at Juniors but being sheeple they feel a natural need to paddle out and ruin the surf of the guy by himself.

Hint - the guy by himself is usually giving up quality for no crowds and is probably a better surfer than you. LEAVE THEM ALONE AND SURF SOMEWHERE ELSE.

Sorry but it need to be said.

Waves : 1' inconsistent
Winds : just swinging NNW
Swell : 0.60 @ 13 and blipping upwards slightly
Desperation level : zen master as it is frustrating as hell
Recommendation : monitor

Some waves around

The swell has picked up over 0.4 and there are some waves at Juniors and the reef. Unfortunately the wind is onshore and messing it up a little.

Surfed about three and it was okay. The swell was inconsistent and not very powerful. BP reef is still breaking on the inside platform so some of the waves were dry sucking like Chopes.

My main whinge was the crowd. What a collection of kooks. Tip for Fathers who think that as their children want to surf they should do it too - LEARN THE RULES. It bad enough that I had to call the grom off the wave because he didn't think to look left but the Dad just drops in and kooks straight to shore. One surfer per wave and thats the guy inside and first up ..... and because you can't surf your get the left overs not the good ones.

And to the guy with no shirt - Juniors in a right, you're meant to be going away from the breaking part. At least he didn't drop in (because he was way out on the shoulder and could only catch the close outs).

I feel better now.

Afternoon (3 pm)
Swell          : couple of feet and rising
Wind          : onshore and mainly west
Quality       : 4.5 out of 10 (no power)
Crowd       :  a very difficult 10
Fun factor  :  it was okay before the crowd came
Wave Count : 10+
Board        : Twin fin dhuie