New Swell

Bit of a glass off and new pulse of swell in the water this afternoon. The swell was quite small but ever now and then a big one came through. Unfortunately the lack of a decent bank meant that most of the waves just shrunk and dumped in the shorie.

Tried to get a wave at Juniors. It looked smaller than it really was (although it wasn't big) but with a fair old current pushing north and a couple of decent rips to add to a lowish tide. Spent all my time paddling to try and get into position for the odd one that looked like it may hold up. Generally the waves peaked but rolled onto the shallow bank to crash.

Because it looked different from the beach I had decided to try out the old Bruce Montgomery 80's thruster that I had recently "restored". At 6'0" x 19" it was at least 10 inches shorter than anything I had ridden in the last ten years. Last time I had a board that small I was considerably younger, considerably fitter and a hell of a lot lighter. Needless to say I sank when sitting on it and struggled to catch any waves at all. Even when I though I got one I tended to just fall off the back. Might keep it in the shed for a clean summer day and try again.

Before

After

Good news, bad news kind of day

Good  news - don't have to start work until 2
Bad news - workers are due at my house by seven so I can't sleep in

Good news - they haven't turned up by eight so I can go to the beach
Bad news - the wind is mostly onshore, the swell is to southerly to hit the BP reefs right

Good news - its a nice day for a ride on my bike
Bad news - as I come to the top of the hill overlooking BP a surfable set rolls through Juniors

Good news - wind has turned offshore and there is a new bigger straighter swell
Bad news - I'm on my bike so it will take me a while to get back

Good news - nothing much has changed
Bad news - it is breaking pretty close in and some of the rocks aren't very deep. Better keep an eye out and surf Juniors

Good news - first wave was a decent size, had a bit of power and a little wall
Bad news - bit hard to pick where to take off, its so shallow I'm touching the bottom as I paddle out

Bad news - its a bit inconsistent and I'm not very patient
Badder news - might just sneak a little further inside and catch a in-between one while I wait for a set

Good news - caught a little runner
Bad news - the rock that has no water over it right in front of me

Good news - I didn't hurt myself when I hit the reef
Bad news - I now have a twin fin but not in the right places

Good news - I now have time for the other things I needed to do before work
Bad news - there are still waves and I can't surf them

New Board

It has finally arrived - my new 6'9" Yahoo dhu-fish. This is the first time in about 6 years that I've had a board under 7' and I'm amping.

These boards are killer and suit both my "style" and the crap waves that I usually ride. They are perfect for the late 30 (okay 40) surfer who is the wrong side of the perfect BMI but likes to burn and spray grommets.

The board comes with a new fin box that allows a bit of movement of FCS fins and Hillzee tells me it surfs great as a twin fin.

The only problems is that it will only look this pristine and perfect until I wax and ride it.

It Will be Ready on Saturday

Apparently "your board will be ready Saturday" means the sander will be doing the final sand on Saturday not drive for an hour, find out its not finished and then drive straight home !

Devil Wind

The morning sickness hasn't burnt off and the north wind is into it.

Nowhere is surfable (and I'm desperate so that tells you how bad it is). Capel is flat and weedy, Back Beach is flat and weedy and the only decent bank at BP has formed from weed.

The only bright spark is that I have picked up one of my damaged boards (although it now has different coloured fins) from Yahoo Surfboard in Dunsborough and the weather was crap down there as well.


Think I will go to work.

Afternoon Report

Spent the afternoon at Yahoo Surfboards in Dunsborough putting two boards in for medical attention to missing fins caused by low tide BP and deciding if I should get the 6'6" Dhu-fish off the rack or wait three weeks for a custom 6'9". I went the 6'9".

On the way back checked out Capel cut. A few locals out and the odd little wave. Didn't look great but it would have been a nice way to end the day.