Runs

The best run of swell that I can remember in ages. Its dropping now but could still be ok tomorrow. Not only was the swell strong but it was warm and mostly offshore as well. The only problem was the crowds and their lack of understanding of surfing etiquette, especially "one surfer per wave". At 6.30 this morning there was 15 out at BP Reef and at 4.30 this arvo the whole BP carpark was full, with a steady 30 in the water. When one got out another got in. And it has been like that for every daylight minute since Saturday morning.

This has kept me out of the water a bit over the period but I had to get wet this afternoon. Despite sitting deep and dangerous on the reef at Juniors I caught six waves and got drop in on twice. To rub it in both failed to make the drop (they never were going to make it), causing me to straighten out straight at the rocks. And it wasn't a case of us being next to each other, I had been up and riding and about to hit their section when they paddled in. One was actually trying to go left while I was riding at him ???? To rub it in one booger sat inside me and called me out of a wave he was too deep for and then stopped paddling !!!!

The proper take offs for the three breaks are shallow, sucky and very small. You can't straighten out because the reef in front of you is less than fin deep. The drop in kooks are safe on the shoulder. If I didn't care about my boards I would just run them over.

Unlike a couple of older guys at BP Reef who hog every wave despite not being greatly skilled, I only catch a small number of waves. I'm picky on which one I want and like to day generally let the first wave of the set go through. If you've waited your turn regardless of how long since my last wave, the next set is yours (just don't screw it up). The guys dropping in on me today probably got 25 waves each in the time I got 6 but still they wanted the ones I was on. I love surfing but just can't deal with this lack of awareness and manners.

My simple message -

IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE SKILL TO SIT INSIDE, GET OUT OF THE WAY OF THOSE WHO DO

0.49 @ 13 and dropping