Friday, October 21, 2011

Spring break

I ended up with a surprise day off and some nice little waves at Juniors. The rip was causing an A frame peak and the swell was only about two feet but it kept coming.


The rip was both a blessing and a curse. The blessing was that it made the waves break and that you could let it drag you back out if you caught a right. The curse was that it moved the take off around a little and it pulled you to far out and pushed you north.


I tried a couple at BP Reef. It was breaking way inside but one rock just after the take off was nearly dry sucking and that tended to ruin it.


The crowd maxed at four while I was there but that was about the limit it could take. Luckily everyone was pretty cruisy because one wave hog would have ruined it for everyone.



Looks like rain for the next few days.


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