With so much north in the swell the mystical BP Reef right has made an appearanceand so has the crowd. It was chockas this morning, with some less skilled surfers dropping in and ther wereva few hassles. Eden was the only one getting the hard sucky lefts but the rights were the pick.
BP groyne was throwing down sand spiting drainers. Exclusively body boarders only but you could stand on the beach and look straight into the throat of the wave as bit broke just off the beach.
I saw one grommet on the beachie do a take off that looked like small Backdoor and then throw the full Kong hands tube stance before getting a stand up pit and a sand blast smashing.
Fraggles had waves. They were really inconsistent as usual and really bumpy as usual. They were also breaking really close to the rocks and those riding outside weren't being able to clear the inside bulge
My intense hatred for crowds, especially one that was such a mix of skills, lead me to Barnacles and some short but fun take offs and little runners.
Who knows when a summer swell like this will appear again, get into it or you'll miss out..
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