Sunday, August 19, 2012

Going

Swell has dropped again. There is the very, very odd one footer running off the rocks at Juniors and off the groyne.

Nice conditions but I can't recommend surfing. Its nice if you have another way to play in the ocean.





0.38 @ 13 (and going straight up)



Saturday, August 18, 2012

Billabong Pro

Inconsistent waves for day two and round two. Most of the top ranked surfers got through with the exceptions being a rapidly fading Bede Durbridge and Jordy Smith, who would have been to big for the little tubes. Yadin Nichol also dropped out and adds another 33rd to his season.

Round three looks like this -

Heat 1: Mick Fanning (AUS) vs. Fredrick Patacchia (HAW)
Heat 2: Julian Wilson (AUS) vs. Adrian Buchan (AUS)
Heat 3: Taj Burrow (AUS) vs. Kai Otton (AUS)
Heat 4: Owen Wright (AUS) vs. Miguel Pupo (BRA)
Heat 5: C.J. Hobgood (USA) vs. Michel Bourez (PYF)
Heat 6: Kelly Slater (USA) vs. Ricardo dos Santos (BRA)
Heat 7: Joel Parkinson (AUS) vs. Taylor Knox (USA)
Heat 8: Jeremy Flores (FRA) vs. Heitor Alves (BRA)
Heat 9: Josh Kerr (AUS) vs. Damien Hobgood (USA)
Heat 10: John John Florence (HAW) vs. Brett Simpson (USA)
Heat 11: Gabriel Medina (BRA) vs. Alejo Muniz (BRA)
Heat 12: Adriano de Souza (BRA) vs. Kieren Perrow (AUS)

Much will depend on the conditions but Mick Fanning and Joel need to look out. If it is big Taj and Adriano will have a tougher day.

Watch the highlights from the first two days and look for Josh Kerr's double barrel right on day one !




Like spring

 Great mid-winter day. Just a little nip in the air, wispy winds and clear water.

The swell has continued to drop but there are still some shortish waves out of the rip bank at Juniors. The odd set has chest height takes offs but its mostly around waist height. Best of all is that there is no one out.

I've just had the best three board session for ages all by myself. I started on the map, switched to the slab and finished off with a couple using the hand plane. Nice start to the weekend but now the jobs around the house start.








0.40 @ 11

Friday, August 17, 2012

Nice

Looks like the waves have hung around even if they are smaller.

The sun is setting later so I got 45 minutes in afterwork. The rip is still equally angel and devil but there was the odd fun one. Always worth the effort on Friday.

Saturday looks cold in the morning and winds light, afternoon and Sunday are touch and go.

0.43 @ 11

Billabong Pro

The Billabong Pro Tahiti has started in inconsistent head height surf at Teahupoo.

So far all the top seeds other than Mick Fanning are straight through to round 3. Adriano DeSouza scored 19+ in his heat.

It's an early morning time zone for us and you can watch online, through the Billabong and ASP apps or on FuelTV.

Thursday, August 16, 2012

Missed opportunities

Some nice waves this morning out of the rip at Juniors and at BP groyne. The winds were light, tide mid to full and the crowd a manageable five.

I was meant to be heading south this morning but my cold won't get better (or worse) and has given me infectious eye boggers. So not being allowed to work means no trip south.

The wind has just swung to the south and cranked into double figures. It looks like it will be onshore for the rest of the day, although the forecast does leave a little wiggle room for a late afternoon glass off.

The rip looks like it is around for a little while. Its the split personality of ocean currents. It is making the waves A frame and hold up into the channels but drags you out past the take off point and spits you down the beach. There is a lot more paddling than surfing !

The wind conditions look ok for tomorrow but on a pretty quickly dropping swell.

0.61 @ 11







Monday, August 13, 2012

Washing Machine

The wind has passed by and left mush. The ocean is just a messed up wash with light onshore winds. The swell doesn't look that big and doesn't seem to have direction.

It doesn't look like it will clean up today so go to work. Mid week seems to be a possibility.

The harbour buoy is still down.

Sunday, August 12, 2012

Surf Movie Sunday

Bit of a mix of longer videos for a wet, stay at home Sunday.

We'll start with the second episode in Billabong's pre-Chopes series



Bruce Irons got smashed during last year's massive Chopes session. He talks to Surfer Magazine but I can't embed the video so click here.

Fox has released a feature movie of its sponsored surfers.



And finally nothing to do with surfing other than it was in the water. Regardless it is pretty amazing !

They were right

Front started to hit early this morning and it has been windy and rainy since.

Don't expect much change or to get ocean wet today. I'm guessing that a few will head to the Wall for a look but you'd need to be keen.

As usual in this weather the harbour buoy has dropped out.


WEATHER SITUATION

A strong cold front and associated rain band approaching the South West of the
state may cause HEAVY RAINFALL that could cause FLASH FLOODING and DAMAGING
WINDS to  100 kilometres per hour which could result in DAMAGE TO HOMES AND
PROPERTY from mid to late Sunday morning about the SW district, extending
throughout Sunday afternoon and evening. DANGEROUS GUSTS in excess of 125
kilometres per hour could cause SIGNIFICANT DAMAGE TO HOMES AND PROPERTY IN
LOCALISED AREAS.

HIGHER THAN NORMAL TIDES are expected near the south coast .

People in the southwest of WA experience a front as windy as this about 5 times
per year.

Saturday, August 11, 2012

Last chance

If you need to get wet this weekend you've got about an hour. A severe weather warning has just been issued for tomorrow from dawn and it looks like we'll be battening down for the day.

It's onshore but about 1 in 10 holds up. I just had a quick bash and it wasn't easy out there. It not the size but the strength of the rip thats making it a little difficult. Lots of paddling in, out and sideways.

If you aren't keen start putting away your outside stuff instead.

0.73 @ 12.

Glassy

Glassy with light and variable winds.

The swell is still around and pretty consistent with some nice walls coming out of the Juniors rip and off the groyne.

0.79 @ 12

Friday, August 10, 2012

Typical

Clean, offshore and some decent banks. But I'm crook so its photos only !

A few guys out at Juniors and the groyne getting some nice rides. Get out there if you can.









0.63 @ 12 and steady

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

LAGO-ish

Light onshore winds late this afternoon and a decent size swell. Some guys out at the BP Groyne getting the odd one between sets on the head and closeouts.

Fraggles looked like it was pumping but when you looked it was hours between waves. Long time to be dangling your feet in the dark copping sinkers on the head from the fisherman so no one was there.

Down at the Bay a couple of guys were using jet ski assist to overcome the wash.

0.8 @ 11










Peephole

Its just offshore first up and there is plenty of swell. However after the fronts of the last few days it is messy, brown and not looking like any fun.

Go to work and wait for the banks to settle.

1.00 m @ 13

Sunday, August 5, 2012

Update

The Wall is a no-go, no enough swell and the wind straight on to it.

The conditions are getting worse by the minute but the blue sky seems to be tempting some to at least try.

Swell heading down and seas up - 0.72 @ 11 and a bit, winds NNE and gusting to 29 kmh (up from 9 in the last two hours).


Surf Movie Sunday

Here's this weeks efforts

Dean Morrison in Africa



Ry Craike in Java



And finally the Billabong has released the first of its pre-event videos before Chopes (which is two weeks away). Something warm for when the wind and rain comes here.

Don't be fooled

It might be sunny but the northerly is in and strengthening.

Theres a little swell and a few having a bash here and there but its not really worth the effort.

Front coming tonight with a decent blow. Maybe next week ?

I'm going to walk the dog to the Bay soon so there might be another post if the Wall is ok.

0.8 and rising at 12.

Wednesday, August 1, 2012

Wintery

Bit of a very late glass off but with the low tide there wasn't much on offer.

The Bay looks like it has a bank or two forming. There were three out at the Wall, one way out the back (but not far enough) and two in the normal spot. There were some swells coming in but breaking to close to the rocks. In the 15 minutes I watched it for they didn't get a wave and probably only missed one that could have been surfable.

More bad weather tomorrow and stronger onshore winds. The swell is meant to be coming up but the conditions will make it pus. Stay inside.

0.78 @ 11 seconds from the west. Seas 1.01

Sunday, July 29, 2012

Surf Movie Sunday

Not much to pick from this week either

Some big waves on the east



Yanks in WA and NZ



Josh Kerr in Indo

Small

Northerly winds and small.

0.56 @ 14

Saturday, July 28, 2012

Handplane goodness !


Took the newest hand plane out for a test bash this afternoon at BP reef. Looks great and still smells of cedar. The finishing oil made it a bit darker but it is pretty.

The waves were ok but the water is freezing. The hand plane is a lot bigger and wider than my previous attempts but held a nice mid-face line. There are a couple of little things that need to be tweaked (mainly the strap) but I think it is a goer.





0.57 @ 14

Little ones

Nice morning but a little cold.

BP has no banks and the swell is rolling over the reef without breaking. The Bay is small but there are some little wedges for the lay down groms.

Coastalwatch has it being classic down south at 6 to 8 foot and offshore.

0.55 at 14

Sunday, July 22, 2012

Arvos

Wind never really picked up and the swell hung around all day. The reef was the only real wave and there was a rotation of surfer all day.

I decided to have a hand plane session at Barnacles because it has been too many days since I last got wet. The waves weren't great and there were plenty of rocks but I braved the cold water to get a couple of little walls. Always brings a smile to your face.

The down side was that I took out my waterproof camera and the back opened. I think it is stuffed but I've got my fingers crossed for when it dries. Looks like the SD card died and some of my photos with it.

As usual I had finally figured how I would mount it on my new hand board. The new board is just about ready to hit the water. I gave it a finishing sand this afternoon and the first coat of oil to finish it. Looks great. Its wider and made from strips of cedar and Tassie oak. Made for some great smells during construction but the different hardness and grains made for some interesting shaping.

I have kept this one very simple with just a slight single concave running through the middle. It's only three slabs wide and there isn't much rocker either. I'm hoping by keeping it flat it will plane better and faster. However with the width it is going to be a bugger to swim with.

Rough Shape

Nearly done


Surf Movie Sunday

Not a lot to choose from this week.

Last week was classic rides at Cloudbreak. This week it is bone crunching wipeouts from the swell during last month Volcom Pro.



Some 1994 footage of deep Indo by Sonny Miller.



Like I said, I'm scratching for clips so here's something to make you feel better when it's less than classic.

Lefts

Glassy with little wind. The swell has dropped a fair bit and the direction has pushed the waves to BP Reef.

The same people as yesterday out enjoying the odd sucky left. Not very good but ok if you want to get wet (and the crowd stays away).

0.71 @ 13 from the WNW

Saturday, July 21, 2012

Some pics

from today. They were having fun in very inconsistent waves.









Good or not

Offshore, blue sky and plenty of swell. There is a few very inconsistent waves coming out of a rip off the rocks at Juniors.

Four guys out at the moment sharing two wave sets which tend to be very quick. Get the right one and it will be fun but you could be pretty frustrated.

Swell holding between 0.93 and 0.75 at 14 from the west.

Friday, July 20, 2012

Never wait

I just decided to have a run down to the Bay. It wasn't any good (although the one guy out seemed to be happy enough) but the Wall had a little mal-loving runner right out the back. The tide was just right and swell in the right direction but it was too late.

Would have been a bit sharky by myself but looked fun. Bummer.

On the plus side both are showing some signs of being ready if the right swell comes through.

0.80 at 14

Mush

Got a sneaky day off and was hoping for a sneaky surf. Nearly !!!!

There is a building swell in the water but no banks and the reef isn't doing it either. The wind has swung onshore. Its light but not helping anything.

I think I need to trek off to the Bay over the weekend to see if there are any banks forming there as the swell direction is pretty good. Not holding my breath though as it hasn't worked for two years.

0.90 at 14 from the west but with a south west swell (3.38 at Naturaliste) just showing.

Sunday, July 15, 2012

Another write off weekend

Onshore and crappy. Yet another weekend with no wave.

0.60 at 16 - westerly swell

New/old World Champ

Steph Gilmore has won another world title, winning the Roxy Pro in France last night.

The waves so bad early that I couldn't be bothered watching for more than a couple of minutes in the first round so can't tell you how she surfed or anything else.

The stupid thing is that it is July and the world champ has been picked and there is only one event left.


Surf Movie Sunday

Ry Craike and Clay Marzo surf some crap in WA



Jay Davies at Rabbit Hill



One for the girls - Laura Enever ripping



And a nice 18 minute edit from last years massive swell, the best until this year's swell during the Volcom Pro

Friday, July 13, 2012

Visitors

A whale has had a leisurely day cruising just offshore from Marlston Hill accompanied by a pod of dolphins.






Just as you feel safe because its to shallow for a big shark to come in a frisking massive whale floats past !!!!!!

On the negative, no waves today and not looking much like it is going to improve. Before the fog cleared it looked like it might have been okay but wasn't.

Really south swell at 0.34 metres and 12 seconds.

Tuesday, July 10, 2012

Short sharpie

Twenty minutes and two waves before the sun went down. Juniors was cranking on the north swell.

It was really difficult to find the take off spot because it move sideways and in and out. That just meant you watched sweet waves detonating around you. Lots of unridden bombs because it was just me. Saw on right break at the back of the reef for a softish take off at head height, suck into a legitimate barrel section and the warp its way to the beach.

Just wished I'd gotten home earlier.

Sunday, July 8, 2012

Disappointing again

Swell is around but there is nothing to form them into waves. The wind is cold and SSE and there is one guy out pin the reef but judging by where he is sitting he doesn't surf there much.

No suggestions as the tide will continue to drop out.

0.48 m @ 12 with a lot of north in it.

Surf Movie Sunday

Taj and friends up north



Night surfing in South Africa (could be called - The night a shark ate me ! )



Trailer for Storm Surfers 3D



And finally some smoothness from Joel Tudor

Saturday, July 7, 2012

Swells up

Light winds but no real shape. Even the reef isn't holding anything worth paddling in to.

The tide is pretty high so it might improve later if the wind doesn't swing.

A bit disappointing.

0.64 at 12 and a bit

Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Not sure

Some swell and off shores but lots of closeouts. The reef looks ok but only just throwing up enough waves for the three already out there. There is a bit of north in the wind so some ribs in the faces.

Might do my chores and fix the ding in my new board from where it fell down in my shed (and replace the snapped out fin and fix the dings in the other boards as well) and then have another look. Not that I have much time before work at lunchtime.

0.26 at 11

Sunday, July 1, 2012

Surf Movie Sunday

Because the real stuff is crappy.


Even better than real surfing.

A sneak peak of the WA section from Billabong's upcoming movie Daze at Sea. And a free downloadable movie from Surfer Magazine. If you want to keep it click here.

Friday, June 29, 2012

Mornings

Nice waves first thing this morning. Juniors and the reef were clean with the wind light and glassy.

Tomorrow might be similar. The swell seems to be holding around 0.5 and the forecast is pretty solid.

Might be worth a trip down south.