Here it comes again

Another front on the way tomorrow with damaging winds. Good job I didn't put the outdoor furniture back after the last one.

Bit of a pre-front northerly wave for those who were quick this afternoon. I saw a guy take a clean head height drop on what looked like the best peak in front of the surf club.

The sea and swell have both swung north west and are climbing rapidly.  The sea is 1.12 and the swell 0.73. The swell period has dropped four seconds since midday and is sitting on 10.

There are some weird blobs on the Stormsurf wave models for the next week or so. It has a 30 foot swell hitting Marges in 72 hours with Perth getting 18 - 20. Forty seven feet of swell is passing the south coast. There are then two follow up 15 to 20 foot swells in the following few days

The models can be a bit funky and this is super unusual

WEATHER SITUATION
A cold front moving over the area during Tuesday is likely to cause WIDESPREAD
DAMAGING WINDS to 100 kilometres per hour that could result in DAMAGE TO HOMES
AND PROPERTY. In isolated areas DANGEROUS GUSTS in excess of 125 kilometres per
hour could cause SIGNIFICANT DAMAGE OR DESTRUCTION TO HOMES AND PROPERTY.
DAMAGING winds are likely to develop about the Capes early on Tuesday morning
and extend to remaining parts later in the morning. Thunderstorms are also
possible.

Higher than normal tides may result in flooding of low-lying coastal areas in
the Geographe Bay area, including Busselton and Dunsborough, on Tuesday morning.

This is typical weather for this time of year.

Better

The nice blue sky has tempted a few out. The waves are better than this morning but that's not hard.

You could probably get one or two if you wanted. There seems to be a new swell in the water so every now and then a bigger one comes through.

I just finished watching "Come hell or high water", the Malloy brothers new movie on body surfing. It is a really high quality flick and more meaty that the normal surf porn. That charged me up so I had a mid- afternoon session at Juniors on my hand plane.

Looks like some bad weather over the next few days but the weekend looks ok. It is a long way out to be to confident though.

0.48 @ 14

Disappointing

Coastalwatch is reporting solid conditions down south and building swell in Perth but here there is nada.

There isn't much swell and the offshore wind is freezing. The Clam has some size but no shape and BP no size so it is missing the bank.

The harbour buoy is showing 0.54 at 14 and holding.

I'm free to get wet today so I'll be monitoring just in case.

Surf Movie Sunday

Kassia Meador in super slow mo for longboard fans. And some big barrels from the Goldie.

ISD Part Two

It was still yesterday in the northern hemisphere when four of us braved the cold and headed south this morning. That means it was actually International Surfing Day still (somewhere).

It was ****ing freezing, starting at 2 degrees when we left Bunbury and not hitting double figures until mid-morning. There was plenty of swell but the wind needed to settle a bit, well that was our excuse to get a coffee at van at the bottom of Yallingup hill and procrastinate for a few minutes so the sun start its job.

We drank watching big Rabbit Hill and from the top look out could here Jay Davies board snap after his huge air. We saw him in the carpark a few minutes later and realised it was the second one he had broken already that session.

Smiths was our wave of choice and over the morning we weren't alone. The crowd was big but manageable with lot of girls ripping and some freaks.

There were basically four spots to surf, Supers, the reef and two banks on the beachies. The beachie was probably the pick but each had its moments. Plenty of wall, plenty of power and some clean pits.

When we came home BP looked like it had been ok as well. The onshore was in but light and there are some weird and shallow banks around. A few hours later the LAGO was looking very nice and there were a few getting amongst it.

Tomorrow looks ok as well, once it warms up !!!

Be super quick

There are waves at BP if you can get down before the sun disappears.

Happy ISD

Too bad there weren't any decent waves.

Luckily the date is a little rubbery so I'm heading south tomorrow for a celebration splash. Not getting my hopes up though.

International Surfing Day coincides with the longest day of the year in the northern hemisphere, which means we get it in winter. Its a made up day that is being used to encourage surfers to be more environmentally aware.

If you love the beach and the waves and can spare some cash consider donating to Surfrider Foundation or SurfAid. If you don't have any money to spare then pick up three pieces of rubbish and chuck them in the bin next time you're at the beach.

Surf Movie Sunday

Some cold waves for a winter's day.

No surf day

Onshore mush. Stay home.

Puzzled

There are a people out at BP. Not really sure why, the conditions are pretty bad. There is swell but it is junky and the wind is mainly onshore. Its pretty fat if they could get one.

On the plus side at least they are getting wet and a bad days surf is better then the best day cleaning the house.

0.61 @ 11

Tough

Been a tough few days weather wise but it backed off a big today. A few guys too the chance to get wet from below rather than above.

There is shit loads of water washing around the place and some weird banks forming at the groyne. Hopefully the next few days will calm a little and let the sand settle .

The seven day forecast has some offshore windows and calm periods so you might need to be ready to take a dip at short notice. It will be one of those weekend where you have to check it a few times over the day.

The guys at BP late this arvo were trying to get some of the corners on offer but it was a lot harder than it looked.

Hey come over here !

0.64 @ 11

Slater wins

Kelly has won his 49th WCT title in Fiji just minutes ago. He is the fourth winner of an event out of the four so far in 2012.

He easily beat Gabriel Medina who couldn't find a back up wave.

Well !

What a storm. Plenty of trees still down and lots of people without power.

The period between 1 pm and 4 pm was the worse, up to 111 kmh winds and 4 mm of rain. The harbour buoys both registered gusts in the 50 knot range and beacon ten, which is well inside Koombana Bay hit over 0.44 metres. It usually its below 0.1.

Beacon 10 - inside Koombana Bay

This wasn't a standard winter front but a tropical low (those things that form cyclones up higher in summer) The barometric pressure dropped massively and suddenly as the the low past over us. It went from a fairly low for us 1005 at 6.00 am to under 985 about 1.00 ish. This is lower than many cyclones.

Pressure drops out - wind goes up

Surf wise tomorrow looks crap, howling westerlies, Tuesday is meant to be worse than today and Wednesday westerlies again in the 30 knot plus range.

Holy shit

What a change from a few hours ago !!!!!

At 2.30 the winds were consistently at 60 kmh and are gusting to 98 ! They have flipped from the NE to the west. The ocean is just whitecaps and spray and is heading in the complete opposite direction to this morning.

There is a ship leaving harbour straight into it. Hopefully for them they are big enough not to be to worried.

Only a couple of hours ago !

This is the only time I've regretted moving closer to the beach. And I've just been called into work. That can't be good.

Severe weather warning

The weather bureau just released this -

WEATHER SITUATION
A deepening low offshore from Bunbury is expected to move rapidly southeast
towards  Augusta during Sunday afternoon and produce DANGEROUS WINDS in excess
of 125 kilometres per hour that could cause SIGNIFICANT DAMAGE OR DESTRUCTION TO
HOMES AND PROPERTY IN LOCALISED AREAS. 

Winds associated with this storm are MUCH STRONGER THAN A USUAL WINTER STORM,
particularly in the southwest. The worst wind conditions are likely near the
coast between Bunbury and Augusta but DESTRUCTIVE WIND GUSTS  could be
experienced in areas southwest of a line Jurien Bay to Katanning to Bremer Bay,
including Perth, Mandurah, Bunbury, Busselton, Margaret River, Bridgetown,
Albany, Katanning, Narrogin and Bremer Bay. 

Across the entire warning area, DAMAGING WIND GUSTS to 110 kilometres per hour
are expected which could result in DAMAGE TO HOMES AND PROPERTY. 

There are some guys out around the surf club but the conditions have changed rapidly in the last thirty minutes. Winds have gone from gusts around 25 ks at noon to 54 ks ten minutes ago. Looking over the water it ain't getting better in a hurry.

Over

Taj lost his semi in wind blown conditions at Cloudbreak. Taj was beaten by goofy Medina.

The wind picked up towards the end of round five and it really favoured the goofies. It has gotten so back they have called it off for the day with two of the quarters to run.

Live blogging

Taj has beaten Parko and moves into a semi against Gabriel Medina. With Slater still in the event this is a bit of a short term blow to Parko but nothing to get very stressed about.

Next heat is Julian Wilson and Owen Wright. Could be another cracker.

Surf Movie Sunday

Some Yanks enjoy some West Oz hospitality. Novelty surf. Waves off the Sydney Opera House ! This one has nothing to do with surfing but I thought it was funny.

Chow down

Volcom Pro Fiji had a late start but is on in clean 4 - 6 foot Cloudbreak. Taj and Parko are in the water as I type mixing big backhand whacks with some pig dogging. 11.27 to go and Parko is in front with neither holding a decent backup wave.

Watch it online and on FuelTV.

How good was Restaurants yesterday ? Look at the highlights.

Hurry

Just got wet walking the dogs but the plus is the sideways motion at BP. Its flukey but looks like some clean NE corners if you can get the right one. Only three booger grooms out.

The groyne looks ok and so does some of the peaks on the beachie.

It is super clean and glassy but the rain has set in already and the forecast is for 30/40 knot winds with 50 knot squalls by early afternoon as a big low moves in.

If you want to get wet now is probably the only time in the next few days as the bad weather is here to stay.

Crud

Messy and onshore today.

All you can eat

After yesterday's massive swell caused the comp to be called off after two heats the event moved to Resturants today. No surprises. Taj faces Parko in round five which will be a cracker.


VOLCOM FIJI PRO ROUND 3 RESULTS:
Heat 1: Taj Burrow (AUS) 15.00 def. Bede Durbidge (AUS) 10.00
Heat 2: John John Florence (HAW) 19.30 def. Adrian Buchan (AUS) 11.67
Heat 3: Damien Hobgood (USA) 13.73 def. Josh Kerr (AUS) 12.06
Heat 4: Mick Fanning (AUS) 13.00 def. Tiago Pires (PRT) 2.36
Heat 5: Gabriel Medina (BRA) 15.93 def. Alejo Muniz (BRA) 7.80
Heat 6: Joel Parkinson (AUS) 18.00 def. Mitch Coleborn (AUS) 15.00
Heat 7: Kelly Slater (USA) 18.14 def. Fredrick Patacchia (HAW) 12.50
Heat 8: Heitor Alves (BRA) 13.90 def. Jeremy Flores (FRA) 10.87
Heat 9: Owen Wright (AUS) 19.27 def. Brett Simpson (USA) 4.00
Heat 10: C.J. Hobgood (USA) 17.33 def. Jordy Smith (ZAF) 17.13
Heat 11: Julian Wilson (AUS) 15.83 def. Miguel Pupo (BRA) 12.34
Heat 12: Adriano de Souza (BRA) 14.66 def. Kai Otton (AUS) 10.87

VOLCOM FIJI PRO ROUND 4 RESULTS:
Heat 1: John John Florence (HAW) 13.17, Damien Hobgood (USA) 11.94, Taj Burrow (AUS) 9.13
Heat 2: Gabriel Medina (BRA) 15.16, Joel Parkinson (AUS) 14.17, Mick Fanning (AUS) 10.50
Heat 3: Kelly Slater (USA) 18.33, Owen Wright (AUS) 17.90, Heitor Alves (BRA) 10.86
Heat 4: Adriano de Souza (BRA) 13.40, C.J. Hobgood (USA) 12.80, Julian Wilson (AUS) 10.40

VOLCOM FIJI PRO ROUND 5 MATCH-UPS:
Heat 1: Damien Hobgood (USA) vs. Mick Fanning (AUS)
Heat 2: Joel Parkinson (AUS) vs. Taj Burrow (AUS)
Heat 3: Owen Wright (AUS) vs. C.J. Hobgood (USA)
Heat 4: Julian Wilson (AUS) vs. Heitor Alves (BRA)

Fiji on

The big swell is starting to hit Fiji and the contest is back on. Cloudbreak is triple overhead and offshore.

Watch it online or on Fuel.

Sideways

Few nice looking 45 degree waves today with the continuing northerlies. Whippies seemed to be the best but peaks were everywhere and a bit of a moving feast.

I didn't get out there and it looks like the boards might stay dry for a while. Tomorrow could go either way with strong north easterly winds forecast. It could throw up some more wedges or just be to messy or push past. Keep an eye on it.

0.57 @ 12 but with north westerly seas at 0.75.

Round Two

Smaller but cleaner and a bit inconsistent in Fiji. Round two is on and Taj and Slater are both easily through. Julian Wilson put on a clinic in his heat to score 18+ for his two waves.

Round two is likely to finish today and it will depend on the consistency whether they step into round three. Rumour is that there is another swell coming tomorrow.

Webcast on the Volcom site or RedBull.tv and live on FuelTV.

VOLCOM FIJI PRO ROUND 2 MATCH-UPS:
Heat 1: Kelly Slater (USA) vs. Isei Tokovu (FIJ)
Heat 2: Taj Burrow (AUS) vs. Willian Cardoso (BRA)
Heat 3: Josh Kerr (AUS) vs. Taylor Knox (USA)
Heat 4: Julian Wilson (AUS) vs. Patrick Gudauskas (USA)
Heat 5: Michel Bourez (PYF) vs. Fredrick Patacchia (HAW)
Heat 6: Gabriel Medina (BRA) vs. Yadin Nicol (AUS)
Heat 7: Miguel Pupo (BRA) vs. Matt Wilkinson (AUS)
Heat 8: Adrian Buchan (AUS) vs. Kieren Perrow (AUS)
Heat 9: Tiago Pires (PRT) vs. Kolohe Andino (USA)
Heat 10: Brett Simpson (USA) vs. Travis Logie (ZAF)
Heat 11: Bede Durbidge (AUS) vs. Adam Melling (AUS)
Heat 12: Kai Otton (AUS) vs. Raoni Monteiro (BRA

Fibber

Even as I wrote the post this morning I had just a sneaking suspicion that the northerly might bring some sideways action this afternoon. And it sort of did.

I got a few fun ones at BP Groyne late this afternoon. They were pretty small but fun. There was a plenty of wall but the wind swell was pretty gutless. The glassy conditions and the clear water made it a little hard to see down the line at times !

I didn't deliberately lie but I did get it to myself !

Surf Movie Sunday

Quiksilver's new movie - Moments 2. Fifteen minutes of goodness. And Moments 1 from last year if you missed it.

Don't go to the beach

Its a perfect storm of rubbish. Full moon high tide, no swell, no banks and north winds with a touch of north west.

Not even the hint of a wave.

0.35 @ 14

Fiji on

The Volcom Pro is on in vicious double overhead Cloudbreak. Luckily round one is non- elimination as it is a very fluky.

Taj had a total of four in his heat and came last. Yadin was leading his with less than a minute to go before Owen Wright chucked a huge cuttie between two tubes.

The webcast is very high quality but the commentators aren't. You can watch it at the normal places, they are about five hours in front.

Still here

Haven't  bothered going to the beach much this week. Today showed me that I haven't missed much.

The swell has been around the 0.4 mark but isn't breaking with anything surfable. A few groms and desperadoes tried at the reef and on the beachies matched their skill levels with the close outs but were still having buckets of fun.

The Stormsurf.com models don't look that flash for the near future. It has a dropping trend until the next front comes through around Thursday.

Surf : 1 foot
Wind : offshore
Swell : 0.48 at 15 seconds
Quality : zip out of anything

Pluses and minuses

Bit each way this morning.

The pluses

Swell has come up
Wind is offshore
Water is crystal clear
Sun is warming the air

Minuses

The banks have all gone
There is a fair bit of north in the wind
The swell is inconsistent

The Reef is the only place that is throwing up anything worth pulling a wet suit on for and only just.

It might get better later but with no banks left I doubt it.

Smaller

The swell has dropped a little but the waves are still coming in around chest height. The tide is pretty full and only the bigger ones are breaking and are bit fat.

The right out of the rip at Juniors is the pick.

Surf : 2 -3
Wind : SE
Swell : 0.48 @ 12 and dropping
Quality : bit fat and a bit fast
Recommendation : worth the paddle for one or two decent one in the session

Still cranking

Consistent head height sets at Juniors, the reef and the groyne. There is truckloads of power but most waves are short or not makeable. The crowd is big and the skill level pretty low, making it hard to get a proper read on the quality.

Surf : head height
Swell : 0.67 @ 12
Quality : smashing
Recommendation : look and judge for yourself

Swell won't quit

Another bump this arvo. The wind was onshore and the shape pretty marginal but there was the odd one between the dumpers. People were out all the way from Juniors to the groyne.

Should drop a little tomorrow but more off shores early and then surge again Sunday.

0.73 @ 12

More waves

Still cranking this morning.

Get out there before the weekend we I can get out so it will be flat.

Dark

Really black clouds and plenty of rain on the horizon this afternoon but I don't know if much will hit us.

There was a little rip bank off the rocks at Juniors this arvo in light onshore conditions. You can tell how inviting it was by the fact that three people were out and another five were trying to find reasons to pull on the wetsuit.

0.71 @ 12

JJ

John Florence has just beat Parko in the final by going to the air.

John John is the full package and has been a standout all contest. He can find a tube anywhere and throws massive airs.

With Slater a no show and everyone above him falling earlier Parko has gone to the top of the ratings.

The waves weren't good no matter how the sponsors talk it up. Billabong had pulled out of the WCT at J-Bay but could find the money for Rio. This event should have been down graded to a six star and J-Bay left alone. The ASP suffers from being controlled by the big surf companies and this is an example of putting sales before the sport.

Nearly over

First semi in the water. Parko vs Mick in glassy waves. Plenty of closeouts but some barrels and ramps.

Second semi John Florence v Josh Kerr.

Watch it on FuelTV and the net.

CCC

Cold, clean and cranking.

Get out there as it is likely to clean up a little more during the morning. Plenty of swell and some corners in between the close outs.

Do it

but quickly.

Basically no wind and really glassy conditions at BP. The swell is hanging around and it looks like a proper surf spot.

There are two guys out and I watched one get a fat-ish take off that then sucked across the bank giving some nice wall and a decent length of ride.

I wouldn't wait to long because the wind will probably be in soon but should only be light.

Size : 2 -3 foot
Wind : calm
Swell : 0.81 @ 12 and holding
Quality : glassy and walling
Desperation level : low
Recommendation : go right now

Yadin out

Yadin Nichol has been beaten by C J Hopgood in Rio. Yadin had a four and one plus. CJ had nothing until he pulled into the only real tube of the heat and got an eight. Parko was calling the heat and pointed out than today an eight is worth twelve.

Everyone is hoping they can it at the end of this round.

Men on in Rio crap

Shitty waves for the Billabong Pro again today. There is a bit of size (5 foot pro size) but is is messy, wobbly, rip filled close outs. The first couple of heats had the odd decent little tube but with the dropping tide they have disappeared.

The last three heats were all won with less than a 10 point two wave total. They have been close but thats because no one can get more than a four. They are talking about running round three because there is swell. Hopefully they will wait to see if the waves clean up and become more contestable.

FuelTV has the broadcast and their is a webcast as well.

UPCOMING BILLABONG RIO PRO ROUND 2 MATCH-UPS:
Heat 1: Gabriel Medina (BRA) lost to Peterson Crisanto (BRA)
Heat 2: Michel Bourez (PYF) beat Tomas Hermes (BRA)
Heat 3: John John Florence (HAW) beat Willian Cardoso (BRA)
Heat 4: Heitor Alves (BRA) beat Taylor Knox (USA)
Heat 5: Damien Hobgood (USA) lost to Patrick Gudauskas (USA)
Heat 6: Brett Simpson (USA) beat Jadson Andre (BRA)
Heat 7: Bede Durbidge (AUS) vs. Fredrick Patacchia (HAW) - in the water now
Heat 8: C.J. Hobgood (USA) vs. Yadin Nicol (AUS)
Heat 9: Raoni Monteiro (BRA) vs. Travis Logie (ZAF)
Heat 10: Kai Otton (AUS) vs. Tiago Pires (PRT)
Heat 11: Kieren Perrow (AUS) vs. Kolohe Andino (USA)
Heat 12: Matt Wilkinson (AUS) vs. Adam Melling (AUS)

Bang

Lots of swell coming in last night. I was down just as the sun was coming up this morning to see a solid lump of swell close out from Barnacles across Juniors and past the reef. The wind was trying to be offshore but was more side shore. Half an hour later I went past again and the push was still around but the maccas were fairly scarce. Nothing surfable of course.

The temp was weird. It was like there was a line at the BP carpark. On the ocean side it was southerly and  18 degrees, on the harbour side it was cold easterly and around 11. You could almost find the spot where one side of you would be warm and the other cold.

The swell has hung around although it has dropped from over a metre to just over 0.8. The wind has been wrong all day. Tomorrow looks like a carbon copy of today with winds and temps the same. Although WSW is forecast their might just be the slightest window very early but I wouldn't bet my house on it.

Girls done

Sally Fitzgibbons has won the women's Billabong Pro Rio in more crappy beach break dribble. She beat Coco Ho in a close final. Both surfers got decent scores on waves that normally would be scored a four but got beefed up with the conditions.

This is her second win of the year and she is again a serious contender for the title again this year with just two more events left (France and the US Open).

Hopefully the men will get better waves but don't bet on it. Round two surfers would be getting a little nervous.

Swells up

but its crap.

1.06 in the harbour but cold on shores all day and lowish tides. No waves.

Might be bad for a few days but again look for the windows where it will be ok

Disappointing

The swell is still around but the tide, wind and northerly drift have killed it.

Two out at Juniors struggling and a group at the groyne being blown to South Africa. The waves look ok if you were able to get them but no one can.

It is possible that the conditions might improve but i'm not confident.

Surf : 2 foot sets
Swell : 0.46 @ 11
Winds : strong easterly but with a northerly drift
Quality : below average
Desperation level : pretty desperate but no one will laugh if you go out
Recommendation : watch

Don't wait

still waves. Bit of a crowd and a bit fat but worth it and not just because its Friday.

Steady 0.53 at nearly 12

Priorities

Work can wait. Get out there.

Clean waves with a little punch at Juniors. The tide and the rip are making it hard to get in the right position but when you do there is a decent wall to work with. Hell of a lot better than the crap the sent the women's CT out in in Rio last night.

A dropping tide will help and it should be fairly good all morning. No one was on them but there looks like some beachies as happening at BP as well. And the reef has a couple of lefts for the goofies.

Sorry

I planned on blogging the conditions when I first got to work but as usually was under the pump from the get go.

It was wobbly and offshore first thing with only two a long way out. There was a reasonable slice of size and some runners if you could get the right one

Late this arvo there was still plenty out. The wind was onshore but just making it crumbly. Plenty of waves and some little walls.

The clam is starting to form a bank and sand has moved around at Hungry Hollow. A rip is allowing some shape out the front of Extensions.

Should be clean tomorrow and maybe worth a sickie.

0.60 @ 10

Rio on

The Billabong Pro Rio has started with Men's round one heats in some decent beach breaks. The waves look tricky and are breaking out of a weird sidewash take off from a rocky headland.

Taj has just won his round one heat ins board he basically has never ridden.

Big news is that Slater pulled out a few days ago with a leg injury. That gives some else a chance to be number one after the event.

The webcam and results are down at the moment but it's live on FuelTV.

Brazil isn't good for us time wise and usually the surf is pretty crap. If the heats start early enough you can get through a few before bed but the bulk will be for night owls only.

Back

Rain's back but luckily not the wind.

The swell has dropped from its massive 7 metres during the height of the front but there is still waves. BP looks pretty crappy but a few have tried their luck. I probably would have in the past but too fat and lazy now.

The forecast is for light winds over the next few days with the possibility of offshore from tomorrow. The blow and the tides have moved plenty of sand around so their could be banks everywhere (or close outs).

Swell : 0.68 @ 11

I wonder

On days like today what Bunbury would be like if a massive clean swell hit. There are some huge waves capping and breaking way out and some big walls amongst the carnage.

The harbour buoy is 1.19 metres and Naturaliste is just a touch under six. Winds have been gusting in the high 30 kph since early this morning and as high as 50 at times. Augusta is being smashed as usual with winds getting close to double our worst.

Wouldn't be planning on getting wet for a few days (excluding getting caught in the rain). Neither Fraggles or the wall have decent banks yet but this front will help.

Don't bother

The surf is as you would expect - onshore mush. There isn't much size and very little shape.

A few have paddled out over the day but no one has really got anything worth the effort paddling.

Not looking good for a few days but there might be a window here and there if you're quick.

0.75 @ 12 from the WNW

There's

A bit of swell showing but no shape. Might be worth keeping a eye on if you don't have anything pressing to do.

If you can get down south and out of the wind a little it should be good all day.

0.49 @ 14

Code Red online

Billabong has release the HD version of its Code Red Tahiti video on YouTube. Amazing quality footage of one of the biggest days surfed at Chopes. Worth spending the 15 minutes watching.

Sheeple

Still a little swell around but the tide is killing it. But that hasn't stopped a pile of people heading out this morning.

Now my whinge. Most days Barnacles just roles through minding its own business without any even looking at it. Its tricky and short and usually results in you losing a fin or two.

There are probably five people who regularly surf Barnacles and they usually do it to get away from the crowds at Juniors or off the reef. Eden is one of those and he went out this morning. There is one wave sets maybe every ten minutes and they are only just rideable on the tide. Fifteen minutes later there are four booogers and a short board paddling out to sit on him. If he wasn't out they would have been with the other five on the reef or at Juniors but being sheeple they feel a natural need to paddle out and ruin the surf of the guy by himself.

Hint - the guy by himself is usually giving up quality for no crowds and is probably a better surfer than you. LEAVE THEM ALONE AND SURF SOMEWHERE ELSE.

Sorry but it need to be said.

Waves : 1' inconsistent
Winds : just swinging NNW
Swell : 0.60 @ 13 and blipping upwards slightly
Desperation level : zen master as it is frustrating as hell
Recommendation : monitor

Still swell

Still swell kicking around even if the banks aren't really coping. Yesterday kicked over 0.7 but the direction kept it small here.

This morning it had rapidly dropped to the 0.4 mark and with the high tide just wasn't consistent enough to be fun.

Still there was perfect glassy conditions late this arvo and a couple out at Juniors in mainly close outs.

I took the 9 footer to Barnacles for a few fin scrappers. With oily grey water, no one else out and birds dive bombing bait fish the thought of sharks did cross my mind once or twice.

The swell has come off its midday high and should be dropping over the weekend. The winds start to go to crap anyway but I wouldn't totally write the weekend off just yet.

Red sky

Fiery sunrise on this most sacred Australian day. I've been going to the Dawn Service for years and this years crowd was probably the biggest I have ever seen.

Australian War Memorial - Somme - France

There is still a little swell  and the forecast seems to indicated it will hang around. There are two early risers at Juniors in 1' lefts off the rocks. I'm fighting with myself about whether to start work late and get wet or just accept it. My conscience will probably get the better of me.

Surf : 1'
Wind : glassy and offshore
Swell : 0.42 at 12 and a bit and on the way up
Quality : some fun short ones
Desperation level : school tomorrow
Recommendation : consider

Just

Still the smallest bump of swell left. There is a little left across Juniors. The wind is cold and offshore.

Groms looking for a wave before the holidays end should pack the baked beans and spend the day at the beach.

Size : 1'
Wind : offshore
Swell : 0.39 @ 12

Another one

Another nice day with a little swell and all day offshores. I was going to blog first thing this morning when I got to work but as usual Monday's are a shit fight so it didn't happen.

The waves first up weren't world class but surfable enough to be fun. I'm sure it would have cleaned up a little as the morning warmed up.

The arvo had a few waves and a collection of craft. Shorties, SUPs and boggers but they seemed to be enjoying the sun and each other more than the small waves. The tide was pretty shallow but the rip and the reef both threw up the odd one here and there.

Tomorrow looks smaller again but still offshore. Maybe enough for the grooms before school starts again.

0.45 m @a millisecond under 12

All day

The wind stayed light so people were paddling around all day.

You know you're spoilt when ten is to crowed. I'm spoiled and walked down to a rip bank down the beach. My screwed back allows me to stand up on one out of every three waves so I got a couple (moving back to Juniors when the crowd left) but wiped out more often than that. Here a collection of photos I took this morning.

Small

Small wonky swell around 1 - 2 foot. Clean conditions and four out.

Not the sort of day you would give up something else for but if you've got nothing else you might get one to make it worthwhile.

Surf : 1 - 2'
Wind : SE
Swell : 0.42 @ 11
Quality : wonky with the odd short corner
Desperation level : nothing else to do
Recommendation : consider but soon

Over

Wind is in but there are still a couple of fun ones for the two grooms out. I wouldn't bother unless you really need a surf.

Probably if you were out really early it was fun and light offshore but who knows.

Tomorrow looks ok, swell increasing to 3 metres and SSE winds. The banks have shuffled around so there might be a little shape.

Swell 0.52 @ 12. Naturaliste 2.7 at 12.

Some vids to pump you up

Bit of a range, mostly freaky things.

Sometime you wonder who decided this was a surfable wave.



This is unbelievable and will make you rethink what a skim board can do.



Ry Craike at home on a not so great day !



and a couple of old school shredders

Kelly in the 90s, most of the ASP still can't do this.



and some recent Tom Curren

Swell

Plenty of swell around and off shores this morning. I didn't want to torture myself by checking it on the way to work but I suspect it was pretty messy with the wonky swell and small wave banks. I could have been wrong but it kept my sanity at work.

I wandered around my office and cruelly told one of the blokes, who is a bit of a big wave hell man, that Coastalwatch had Marges as 10 foot. He couldn't jump on the swell cams fast enough but we both felt a little better as it was a decent size but a bit drunk looking. We did see one guy get fully pitted at the little bank south of Smith reef but it was crowded and fluky.

Swell is still up around the 0.7 mark and holding steady. The forecast if for it to slowly ease over the next couple of days but with south west winds. First thing Saturday might be ok or the trip down south for a sheltered spot or two (hopefully the crowd will be surfed out).

Clean

Nice glassy clean conditions first up this morning but the swell has dropped away. There is just the very rare two footer breaking at Juniors. If you are very lucky you might get one or two for the whole session.

Apparently it is onshore already down south so don't bother heading that way either.

Size : 1' with odd 2' set
Wind : light offshore
Swell : 0.39 @ 12
Tide : 1.05 m and still rising
Desperation level : naturally lucky people only
Recommendation : work

Nice day

The quickest way to describe the surf is yesterday with less sets and more crowds. The incoming tide is stopping most waves breaking and the sets are coming with one wave or the very rare second one. There was 15 out when I left about a couple of hours ago.

Luckily for me there was only three while I was out and a couple on the reef. A goofy footer with a goatee was cleaning up, getting every set from way deep, shooting the second and smashing a nice bottom top turn combo.

I got tired of waiting so swapped boards and hit Barnacles. It funny how having your fins scrape the bottom on take off can make one footers bring a smile to your face.

The water and air temp were ideal. Still in boardies and a wetsuit vest although everyone else seems to have been tricked into bringing out the winter rubber.

The onshore is in but still light. The forecast is for showers from Marges south and there is clouds on the horizon. For us just enjoy the fine weather.

0.59 @ 11 seconds. Tide 1.1 metres (predicted as 0.85)

Frustrating

A few small waves first thing this morning but it was pretty frustrating. The tide was super high again and almost everything was rolling over the back bank/rip combo. There was the odd super clean A frame but it was flukey to catch them.

Plus my back is screwed again and I couldn't get to my feet smoothly anyway.

Soooooo frustrated.

The wind has swung onshore and while there is the very very rare dribbler coming through you wouldn't give up much for a surf.

Buoy 0.41 at 11 seconds and pretty steady over the last twenty four hours.

Hold your breath

The Billabong XXL Wipeout nominations have just hit the net. They are all unbelievable but I'm leaning to Mark Mathews having the whole Indian Ocean folding onto his head.