Monday, April 4, 2011

Stoked !!!!!!

Just had my best surf in ages and it was knee high. Don't know if that is a reflection on me, the ongoing lack of waves or both.

Worked late but noticed a little northerly drift on the way home. After my afternoon chores I headed down to Juniors, taking my mini mal just in case. As I pulled up two guys were loading their boards and getting out of their wetties so I my pulse ran a little harder. However after watching for a few minutes I'm not to sure what they rode.

BP Groyne looked like it had a few dumpers so I headed there thinking that I would probably get a body bash. The waves were tiny but breaking at 45 to the beach. I decided to take the board and go for a no leggie session. As I was paddling out a set broke way out off the end and churned through (it was the only wave of this size all session). The water was cystal and back lit and when you paddled it looked like a micro version of Kirra.

My second wave just keep rolling. With the bank being so shallow you could just get in the trim line and fly. My only problem was the sun was setting very quickly. I ended up with a nice handful of flowing runners and a big smile. It doesn't have to be classic to get you stoked.

And to top it off there was a beef roast waiting for me when I got home.

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