Saturday, April 28, 2012

Code Red online

Billabong has release the HD version of its Code Red Tahiti video on YouTube. Amazing quality footage of one of the biggest days surfed at Chopes. Worth spending the 15 minutes watching.

Sheeple

Still a little swell around but the tide is killing it. But that hasn't stopped a pile of people heading out this morning.

Now my whinge. Most days Barnacles just roles through minding its own business without any even looking at it. Its tricky and short and usually results in you losing a fin or two.

There are probably five people who regularly surf Barnacles and they usually do it to get away from the crowds at Juniors or off the reef. Eden is one of those and he went out this morning. There is one wave sets maybe every ten minutes and they are only just rideable on the tide. Fifteen minutes later there are four booogers and a short board paddling out to sit on him. If he wasn't out they would have been with the other five on the reef or at Juniors but being sheeple they feel a natural need to paddle out and ruin the surf of the guy by himself.

Hint - the guy by himself is usually giving up quality for no crowds and is probably a better surfer than you. LEAVE THEM ALONE AND SURF SOMEWHERE ELSE.

Sorry but it need to be said.

Waves : 1' inconsistent
Winds : just swinging NNW
Swell : 0.60 @ 13 and blipping upwards slightly
Desperation level : zen master as it is frustrating as hell
Recommendation : monitor

Friday, April 27, 2012

Still swell

Still swell kicking around even if the banks aren't really coping. Yesterday kicked over 0.7 but the direction kept it small here.

This morning it had rapidly dropped to the 0.4 mark and with the high tide just wasn't consistent enough to be fun.

Still there was perfect glassy conditions late this arvo and a couple out at Juniors in mainly close outs.

I took the 9 footer to Barnacles for a few fin scrappers. With oily grey water, no one else out and birds dive bombing bait fish the thought of sharks did cross my mind once or twice.

The swell has come off its midday high and should be dropping over the weekend. The winds start to go to crap anyway but I wouldn't totally write the weekend off just yet.


Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Red sky

Fiery sunrise on this most sacred Australian day. I've been going to the Dawn Service for years and this years crowd was probably the biggest I have ever seen.

Australian War Memorial - Somme - France


There is still a little swell  and the forecast seems to indicated it will hang around. There are two early risers at Juniors in 1' lefts off the rocks. I'm fighting with myself about whether to start work late and get wet or just accept it. My conscience will probably get the better of me.

Surf : 1'
Wind : glassy and offshore
Swell : 0.42 at 12 and a bit and on the way up
Quality : some fun short ones
Desperation level : school tomorrow
Recommendation : consider

Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Just

Still the smallest bump of swell left. There is a little left across Juniors. The wind is cold and offshore.

Groms looking for a wave before the holidays end should pack the baked beans and spend the day at the beach.

Size : 1'
Wind : offshore
Swell : 0.39 @ 12

Monday, April 23, 2012

Another one

Another nice day with a little swell and all day offshores. I was going to blog first thing this morning when I got to work but as usual Monday's are a shit fight so it didn't happen.

The waves first up weren't world class but surfable enough to be fun. I'm sure it would have cleaned up a little as the morning warmed up.

The arvo had a few waves and a collection of craft. Shorties, SUPs and boggers but they seemed to be enjoying the sun and each other more than the small waves. The tide was pretty shallow but the rip and the reef both threw up the odd one here and there.

Tomorrow looks smaller again but still offshore. Maybe enough for the grooms before school starts again.

0.45 m @a millisecond under 12

Sunday, April 22, 2012

All day

The wind stayed light so people were paddling around all day.

You know you're spoilt when ten is to crowed. I'm spoiled and walked down to a rip bank down the beach. My screwed back allows me to stand up on one out of every three waves so I got a couple (moving back to Juniors when the crowd left) but wiped out more often than that. Here a collection of photos I took this morning.

Small

Small wonky swell around 1 - 2 foot. Clean conditions and four out.

Not the sort of day you would give up something else for but if you've got nothing else you might get one to make it worthwhile.

Surf : 1 - 2'
Wind : SE
Swell : 0.42 @ 11
Quality : wonky with the odd short corner
Desperation level : nothing else to do
Recommendation : consider but soon

Saturday, April 21, 2012

Over

Wind is in but there are still a couple of fun ones for the two grooms out. I wouldn't bother unless you really need a surf.

Probably if you were out really early it was fun and light offshore but who knows.

Tomorrow looks ok, swell increasing to 3 metres and SSE winds. The banks have shuffled around so there might be a little shape.

Swell 0.52 @ 12. Naturaliste 2.7 at 12.

Thursday, April 19, 2012

Some vids to pump you up

Bit of a range, mostly freaky things.

Sometime you wonder who decided this was a surfable wave.



This is unbelievable and will make you rethink what a skim board can do.



Ry Craike at home on a not so great day !



and a couple of old school shredders

Kelly in the 90s, most of the ASP still can't do this.



and some recent Tom Curren

Swell

Plenty of swell around and off shores this morning. I didn't want to torture myself by checking it on the way to work but I suspect it was pretty messy with the wonky swell and small wave banks. I could have been wrong but it kept my sanity at work.

I wandered around my office and cruelly told one of the blokes, who is a bit of a big wave hell man, that Coastalwatch had Marges as 10 foot. He couldn't jump on the swell cams fast enough but we both felt a little better as it was a decent size but a bit drunk looking. We did see one guy get fully pitted at the little bank south of Smith reef but it was crowded and fluky.

Swell is still up around the 0.7 mark and holding steady. The forecast if for it to slowly ease over the next couple of days but with south west winds. First thing Saturday might be ok or the trip down south for a sheltered spot or two (hopefully the crowd will be surfed out).

Monday, April 16, 2012

Clean

Nice glassy clean conditions first up this morning but the swell has dropped away. There is just the very rare two footer breaking at Juniors. If you are very lucky you might get one or two for the whole session.

Apparently it is onshore already down south so don't bother heading that way either.

Size : 1' with odd 2' set
Wind : light offshore
Swell : 0.39 @ 12
Tide : 1.05 m and still rising
Desperation level : naturally lucky people only
Recommendation : work

Sunday, April 15, 2012

Nice day

The quickest way to describe the surf is yesterday with less sets and more crowds. The incoming tide is stopping most waves breaking and the sets are coming with one wave or the very rare second one. There was 15 out when I left about a couple of hours ago.

Luckily for me there was only three while I was out and a couple on the reef. A goofy footer with a goatee was cleaning up, getting every set from way deep, shooting the second and smashing a nice bottom top turn combo.

I got tired of waiting so swapped boards and hit Barnacles. It funny how having your fins scrape the bottom on take off can make one footers bring a smile to your face.

The water and air temp were ideal. Still in boardies and a wetsuit vest although everyone else seems to have been tricked into bringing out the winter rubber.

The onshore is in but still light. The forecast is for showers from Marges south and there is clouds on the horizon. For us just enjoy the fine weather.

0.59 @ 11 seconds. Tide 1.1 metres (predicted as 0.85)

Saturday, April 14, 2012

Frustrating

A few small waves first thing this morning but it was pretty frustrating. The tide was super high again and almost everything was rolling over the back bank/rip combo. There was the odd super clean A frame but it was flukey to catch them.

Plus my back is screwed again and I couldn't get to my feet smoothly anyway.

Soooooo frustrated.

The wind has swung onshore and while there is the very very rare dribbler coming through you wouldn't give up much for a surf.

Buoy 0.41 at 11 seconds and pretty steady over the last twenty four hours.

Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Hold your breath

The Billabong XXL Wipeout nominations have just hit the net. They are all unbelievable but I'm leaning to Mark Mathews having the whole Indian Ocean folding onto his head.

Saturday, April 7, 2012

Confession

I could have done the surf report at 8.00 am but didn't because I wanted an uncrowded surf a little later. First up the conditions were nice and there were little waves and some walls for the four guys out.









After breakfast and walking the dogs I took the slab for a bash. As my feet hit the sand the last guy left the water. The waves were very very inconsistent and the increasing full moon tide was killing it. If you were patient and lucky there were waves but by the time I left around 11 the majority were surging over the bank.

I have just checked and the wind has swung light onshore and with peak of the tide being at noon and 15 centimetres over the prediction the waves have stopped. Looks like that might be it for the next few days.

Friday, April 6, 2012

Glitter

The waves hung around for me to get wet after work. As soon as I paddled out everyone else caught one in.

The waves out of the rip at Juniors were clean and fun. No matter which way you went you ended on rocks but the lefts were best.

The swell hasn't really dropped much over the day and is still hovering about 0.5 metres. The forecast is for the swell to ease slowly over the weekend but there isn't much room for a drop locally.

If you can face the crowds get up early and run south. Coastalwatch reported 8 to 10' this morning.

Get one for me

Perfect conditions this morning - offshore winds, clear skies and some waves, just bring the steamer.

There is a nice consistent left at the southern end of Juniors and the less frequent runner off the reef and the beachies.

There's no one out first thing but I suspect that won't last long. I won't be one of the crowd because I'm off to work but it might still be ok when I finish.

Normally I would suggest heading south because it will be classic but with the Easter crowds I would think twice (unless you have a secret spot).

Surf : 2' consistent
Wind : SE
Swell : 0.62 @ 12
Quality : cold but clean
Desperation level : nil
Recommendation : get out there

Thursday, April 5, 2012

Bells rolls on

Taj out, Slater double fist claiming and clean well overhead waves, Bells has been cranking again today. Both the blokes and the girls got through a bucket load of heats. There were some massive scores (and some little one - Taj). Jordy's superman air is a highlight.



Its worth going to the event site and watching a few heats.

RIP CURL PRO BELLS BEACH ROUND 3 RESULTS:
Heat 1: Adriano de Souza (BRA) 12.33 def. Yadin Nicol (AUS) 9.60
Heat 2: John John Florence (HAW) 13.97 def. Matt Wilkinson (AUS) 9.63
Heat 3: Owen Wright (AUS) 13.77 def. Jadson Andre (BRA) 7.17
Heat 4: Josh Kerr (AUS) 15.17 def. Tiago Pires (PRT) 9.07
Heat 5: Jeremy Flores (FRA) 14.10 def. Bede Durbidge (AUS) 12.83
Heat 6: Kelly Slater (USA) 17.00 def. Nic Muscroft (AUS) 16.30
Heat 7: Kai Otton (AUS) 11.83 def. Taj Burrow (AUS) 6.54
Heat 8: Mick Fanning (AUS) 18.46 def. Raoni Monteiro (BRA) 15.20
Heat 9: C.J. Hobgood (USA) 16.70 def. Gabriel Medina (BRA) 15.60
Heat 10: Jordy Smith (ZAF) 15.43 def. Travis Logie (ZAF) 10.96
Heat 11: Brett Simpson (USA) 15.54 def. Damien Hobgood (USA) 12.53
Heat 12: Joel Parkinson (AUS) 18.94 def. Fredrick Patacchia (HAW) 17.37

RIP CURL PRO BELLS BEACH ROUND 4 RESULTS:
Heat 1: Owen Wright (AUS) 15.87, John John Florence (HAW) 15.00, Adriano de Souza (BRA) 14.93
Heat 2: Kelly Slater (USA) 18.50, Josh Kerr (AUS) 13.10, Jeremy Flores (FRA) 9.64
Heat 3: Mick Fanning (AUS) 18.20, C.J. Hobgood (USA) 10.83, Kai Otton (AUS) 10.33
Heat 4: Joel Parkinson (AUS) 17.27, Jordy Smith (ZAF) 15.60, Brett Simpson (USA) 7.00

RIP CURL PRO BELLS BEACH ROUND 5 MATCH-UPS:
Heat 1: John John Florence (HAW) vs. Jeremy Flores (FRA)
Heat 2: Josh Kerr (AUS) vs. Adriano de Souza (BRA)
Heat 3: Kai Otton (AUS) vs. Brett Simpson (USA)
Heat 4: Jordy Smith (ZAF) vs. C.J. Hobgood (USA)

RIP CURL PRO BELLS BEACH QUARTERFINAL MATCH-UPS:
QF 1: Owen Wright (AUS) vs. TBD
QF 2: Kelly Slater (USA) vs. TBD
QF 3: Mick Fanning (AUS) vs. TBD
QF 4: Joel Parkinson (AUS) vs. TBD

RIP CURL WOMEN’S PRO BELLS BEACH ROUND 3 RESULTS:
Heat 1: Tyler Wright (AUS) 16.74, , Sarah Mason (NZL) 14.50, Laura Enever (AUS) 14.00
Heat 2: Malia Manuel (HAW) 18.30, Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) 17.50, Paige Hareb (NZL) 10.34
Heat 3: Carissa Moore (HAW) 17.94, , Coco Ho (HAW) 12.60, Sofia Mulanovich (PER) 5.86
Heat 4: Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS) 15.90, Lakey Peterson (USA) 15.20, Courtney Conlogue (USA) 14.93

RIP CURL WOMEN’S PRO BELLS BEACH ROUND 4 MATCH-UPS:
Heat 1: Sarah Mason (NZL) vs. Paige Hareb (NZL)
Heat 2: Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) vs. Laura Enever (AUS)
Heat 3: Coco Ho (HAW) vs. Courtney Conlogue (USA)
Heat 4: Lakey Peterson (USA) vs. Sofia Mulanovich (PER)

RIP CURL WOMEN’S PRO BELLS BEACH QUARTERFINAL MATCH-UPS:
QF 1: Tyler Wright (AUS) vs. TBD
QF 2: Malia Manuel (HAW) vs. TBD
QF 3: Carissa Moore (HAW) vs. TBD
QF 4: Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS) vs. TBD

Soon

The wind has swung and is almost offshore. There is a handful of guys out at Juniors for the late and some waves with potential.

Tomorrow looks ok with a dying swell and SE winds.

Surf : 2 foot plus
Wind : SSE
Swell : 0.71 at 12 seconds and fading
Quality : choc milk with a lot of water moving but ok
Desperation level : it's already to late by the time you read this
Recommendation : tomorrow

Wednesday, April 4, 2012

I don't want to go to work !

I just want to sit inside and watch Bells. Round one has finished and Taj is in the water in his second round heat. He has already racked up a high eight on his first wave in the first few minutes.

The waves are clean and offshore but can be a little difficult to surf. Which is the opposite of here where it is massive and onshore. The six metre swell is already showing on the Naturaliste Buoy and still rising. Locally its 1.19 which is massive for the channel.

There will be waves on the Dunsborough side of the cape and it will help set some banks. However with the recent shark attacks and sightings many people will be a bit reluctant to venture out.

It looks like a few have been out at the Wall over the last couple of days and I although I haven't looked myself I suspect that it might have been ok. It would depend a little on the sand.

Surf : Big
Swell : 1.19 at 15 seconds
Wind : howling WNW
Quality : zip
Desperation level : as big as the swell
Recommendation : watch Bells on FuelTV or go to work/school

Tuesday, April 3, 2012

Round one almost done

Round 1 of the women was run in some pretty clean waves at Bells and then the wind made for some crumbly waves for most of the mens round one.



Taj was the only real seed to lose. Julian Wilson and Yadin Nichol both lost as well but all will get a second chance round two.

A massive swell was forecast before the event and they are still expecting some size in the next couple of days.

RIP CURL PRO BELLS BEACH ROUND 1 MATCH-UPS:
Heat 1: Jordy Smith (ZAF) 15.60, Kieren Perrow (AUS) 12.10, Fredrick Patacchia (HAW) 11.17
Heat 2: Owen Wright (AUS) 17.93, Patrick Gudauskas (USA) 14.97, Bede Durbidge (AUS) 13.50
Heat 3: Adriano de Souza (BRA) 16.00, Raoni Monteiro (BRA) 8.67, Taylor Knox (USA) 4.17
Heat 4: Joel Parkinson (AUS) 17.27, Kai Otton (AUS) 12.23, Adam Melling (AUS)
Heat 5: Nic Muscroft (AUS) 16.07, Kolohe Andino (USA) 14.06, Burrow (AUS) 11.10
Heat 6: Kelly Slater (USA) 13.70, Brett Simpson (USA) 10.33, Davey Cathels (AUS) 9.77
Heat 7: Jeremy Flores (FRA) 13.10, Julian Wilson (AUS) 10.23, Yadin Nicol (AUS) 6.66
Heat 8: Mick Fanning (AUS) 14.76, Gabriel Medina (BRA) 12.10, Jadson Andre (BRA) 9.80
Heat 9: Travis Logie (ZAF) 10.93, Adrian Buchan (AUS) 10.90, Josh Kerr (AUS) 8.50

REMAININING RIP CURL PRO BELLS BEACH ROUND 1 MATCH-UPS:
Heat 10: Michel Bourez (PYF), Damien Hobgood (USA), C.J. Hobgood (USA)
Heat 11: Alejo Muniz (BRA), John John Florence (HAW), Tiago Pires (PRT)
Heat 12: Heitor Alves (BRA), Miguel Pupo (BRA), Matt Wilkinson (AUS)

RIP CURL WOMEN’S PRO BELLS BEACH ROUND 1 RESULTS:
Heat 1: Laura Enever (AUS) 15.00, Paige Hareb (NZL) 12.83, Rebecca Woods (AUS) 9.67
Heat 2: Tyler Wright (AUS) 12.77, Malia Manuel (HAW) 11.17, Jacqueline Silva (BRA) 8.30
Heat 3: Lakey Peterson (USA) 14.17, Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) 14.17, Nikki Van Dijk (AUS) 12.90
Heat 4: Carissa Moore (AUS) 16.50, Pauline Ado (FRA) 10.43, Justine Dupont (FRA) 9.40
Heat 5: Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS) 18.84, Coco Ho (HAW) 15.50, Sage Erickson (USA) 11.90
Heat 6: Courtney Conlogue (USA) 15.93, Sofia Mulanovich (PER) 14.17, Sarah Mason (NZL) 12.57

RIP CURL WOMEN’S PRO BELLS BEACH ROUND 2 MATCH-UPS:
Heat 1: Coco Ho (HAW) vs. Rebecca Woods (AUS)
Heat 2: Malia Manuel (HAW) vs. Jacqueline Silva (BRA)
Heat 3: Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) vs. Nikki Van Dijk (AUS)
Heat 4: Sofia Mulanovich (PER) vs. Justine Dupont (FRA)
Heat 5: Paige Hareb (BRA) vs. Sage Erickson (USA)
Heat 6: Pauline Ado (FRA) vs. Sarah Mason (NZL)

Bells is on

Some nice clean conditions for round one of both the men and women. The girls are first and in the water now.

Sunday, April 1, 2012

Changes

Seems like Autumn may have arrived. Yesterday was iffy and today has seen the first front of 2012.

It's howling onshore and messy but there is good size. There are a couple out at BP and another guy at Juniors.

The Juniors guy is getting some nice drops and a little sucky face before the wave flattens out. He pulled off a nice lip throw floater on a head height face just before I left.

I don't recommend that you bother, especially if you're not skilled. The water is messy and there are rips everywhere. With a bit of a surge the rocks that are normally on the waters edge are out a fair bit and hard to see until you hit them.

Size : solid head height sets
Wind : strong onshore WNW gusting to nearly 50 kph
Swell : 0.53 at 12 with seas 1.42
Desperation level : waterman
Recommendation : lounge chairs