Monday, November 29, 2010

Back

Back in Bunbury after a week in Dunsborough. Unfortunately for me the only day it wasn't howling onshore was the one where I started work and drove straight home. Always the way.

Nothing doing locally no matter how long I stare at the ocean and wish. Doesn't look that promising on the long range forecast but we might get some rain.

Monday, November 22, 2010

Psyche

I'm way for a few days working down south. Here's a few videos to get you going in case the swell comes up.



January Issue 2011 Surfing Magazine Trailer from Surfing Magazine on Vimeo.




France: Freesurfing 2 from Mick Fanning on Vimeo.

Still no surf

No surf around and the wind is turning more onshore every minute.

Parko is back

After getting a 10 on his first competition wave since his massive fin chop, Parko has blazed through the first contest of the Hawaiian season, the Reef Pro winning easily a few minutes ago.

The waves have been big, small, offshore and crumbly over the contest period. Steph Gilmore won the womens event a few days ago with WA's Felicity Parmenteer doing really well to reach the final rounds.

The legends heat was one of the best. Surfed on the best day in the biggest waves, Tom Curren won from Occy, Sunny Garcia and Tom Carroll. They will be surfing at each event. Can't wait for Pipe !

Saturday, November 20, 2010

Hot, humid and flat

Bit of north in the wind and no swell. It is meant to be another scorcher but rain this afternoon.

Looks like a good day to whack on the air con and read the new Surfing World hardback book "Badlands". The book is a follow up of sorts from the original desert classic "Surfing Wild Australia" released in the 80s. Both books detail trips to the north of WA and have great photos and good writing. And at just under $15 it's pretty good value.

Monday, November 15, 2010

Nearly

Nearly waves again this arvo. Still offshore but with a fair bit of south and BP Reef was so close to being surfable that its not funny any more. Little waves were breaking inside the inside suck up but rolling nicely with backlit lips and transparent blue faces. Only problems were all the fin loving rocks along the line.

The Weather Bureau are forecasting a heat wave in Perth this week. Apparently that means three days in a row over 35 degrees. If it happens it will be only the fourth time since they started counting. We won't be that hot but might hit 30.

Surfalert is forecasting a couple of kicks in the swell for the Yallingup area, one tomorrow and one on Thursday. The harbour buoy is already showing a quick rise since lunchtime and Naturaliste has climbed to over two metres. With offshore it would be a good day to call in sick and head south.

Sunday, November 14, 2010

Fine

The swell has continued to drop and is barely lapping on the shore. There are three body boarder and one surfer at BP reef. Surprisingly the surfer is making silk purses out of the mini dribbles. That's the value of having been a local forever and having a place wired.

Saturday, November 13, 2010

Spring

Another near perfect spring day. Offshores, super clear water and a temp that allowed the shedding of wetsuits for boardies. The only thing missing was a bank or two.

Yesterday's swell disappeared as quick as it appeared and we were down to around 0.4. There was still some lines showing but the lack of summer sand build up meant that it was mostly closeouts.

There were a few waves on the inside suck up at BP reef and a couple of guys out. But it was really inconsistent and most sets run away to fast. I went for another hand plane session at Barnacles.

Nothing much changed this afternoon. The swell hasn't dropped much bit hasn't picked up either. Took out the board and tried to get into a few off the reef but it wasn't letting me in.

The Leewin was sailing on the horizon and the water and air temp we ideal. But not the waves.

Despite what Meatloaf might say "two out of three is bad !"

Friday, November 12, 2010

Raw

A rawish new swell has hit and looks like it hasn't quite peaked yet. The harbour buoy is over 0.7 and Naturaliste is above 4 metros.

Locally the swell is hitting everywhere and there is the odd wave in between the close out sets. There are a few going for the Friday after work session at Juniors and BP Reef. One guy was getting some decent rides on his forehand off the reef and I saw a set a Juniors which looked like it was going to allow the surfer to get a deep pit but it just ran a little quick for him. Worth a hoot anyway.

I chose the hand board again because I'm a bit over dodging closeouts. A couple of nice quick ones at Barnacles before the battle against the rip and the drift made it not worth the effort.



Looks good for the weekend, especially if you can get away from town.

Thursday, November 11, 2010

Dry

Rain has stopped but the onshore had come in. Not looking like a surf day today.

Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Wet

The rain is nice but a little bit of swell wouldn't go a stray.

Nice light winds for most of today and a few body boarders were out at side wash for the after school bonding session. Just like last week I was trying to will the waves at Juniors to break on the reef but even my desperation couldn't overcome nature.

There is a rumor of a little pulse over the next couple of days but the winds might not be great for it. You'll just have to look for yourselves.

Sunday, November 7, 2010

This weekend

Nothing much surf-wise so far this weekend locally.

Next week doesn't doesn't look great with a bit of rain around.

Ten

Kelly Slater has won his tenth world title overnight. Not happy with that he went on to win the whole event and score a perfect ten in the final.

Slater is the best surfer ever not just in contests but everywhere. Expect the next few months to be about whether he retires or goes for 11. Considering how many events he has won this year he could probably do it easily.

Another rumor is that he will enter (and win) the flegling big wave world tour.

Taj made the semis and had the only other ten of the contest with what has been described as the longest tube at Middles ever.

Wednesday, November 3, 2010

Andy Irons has died

Former world champ Andy Irons has died in the US on his way home from Puerto Rico. Andy missed his round one heat and then pulled out of the event due to illness. Billabong are reporting that he was suffering a re-occurrence of dengie fever and at this stage this is suspected as being the cause of his death.

Andy came back to the tour this year after a year off to deal with some personal problems. He won in Tahiti and had mixed results elsewhere.

His wife is pregnant, which makes the loss just a little sadder.

Monday, November 1, 2010

Steph's fourth

Stephanie Gilmore has just won her fourth world title by making the semis (just).

The waves are onshore but contestable. The women should finish today with the men possibly starting later.