Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Slater wins again

Kelly has just won the Billabong Pro Tahiti, beating Owen Wright in clean overhead surf.

In his 61st final Slater held a nine and high eight to win by just over a point. Owen had a nine and a high seven. Slater took a couple of poundings including going over the falls backwards as he tried to hustle Owen towards the end of the heat.

With the rest of the top six losing early Kelly is back in the title race after missing J-Bay to stay in Fiji.

The next event is in New York starting later this week. The event infrastructure is being rebuilt after having to be taken down due to Hurrican Irene.

Monday, August 29, 2011

All day offshore

Started with a very small swell this morning but perfect condition and ended a little bit bigger.

I finally got a decent wave surfing the Clam late this afternoon. The waves were closing out a little on the low tide but there were the odd decent one in between. There were plenty of peaks up the beach.

Forecast for possible showers over the next few days.

Sunday, August 28, 2011

Toooooooooooooooo big

Tahiti was too big for the third round of the Billabong Pro. A government "red alert" meant that there were restrictions on boat traffic and using the contest tower but didn't stop some tow crews.

The Billabong Pro website continued to webcast the action despite there being no contest and there were some massive and ugly waves. Even towing was very hit and miss.

Round two was run a few days ago and some big names went down. Taj, Parko and Bede all lost in round two and Julian Wilson in round three. In most heats the higher ranked surfer lost. Slater, Jordy and Fanning are still there.

Chopes isn't a very good contest venue. Despite what it looks like on video the waves don't pump constantly they come in very defined and staggered sets. Each heat will get a small number of these sets so if you blow a wave there isn't necessarily another around the corner. When waves do come through they will always barrel but not always let you get out. It is a place where you are either going to come out and get a 7+ or get pinched and get a 2. There is no in between and no building momentum. This is why there is often carnage amongst the seeds as they are just as likely to come on the bad side of this 50/50 shot as the good one.

Taj can pretty much write off his chances of winning the world title this year. I'm hoping that I will be eating these words in December but with two 25th finishes and a third round exit already he will have to hold the 17th. Not to many people have taken the lot with one of those left in their hands. On the plus side the waves at the next few contests should suit him and he will probably be re-seeded so he doesn't keep meeting Slater in the third round (especially with two events in the US to come)

Early burst if spring

Some nice spring like weather over the weekend and as with the rest of the week there has been some waves, especially in the morning. And as usual I haven't been able to get out until now and it was crappy.

There is a nice A frame at the Clam with a fast left on the other side of the channel. A rip bank in front of the Surf Club has been good for weeks now and was really good on some of the glassy mornings this week.

Juniors has a nice rip bowl both ways in front of the rocks. BP Groyne has a little shape but is also shutting down a lot. There are banks up and down BP beach.

Showers on and off next week so there could still be some days to get wet.

Sunday, August 21, 2011

Billabong Pro starts

The Billabong Pro Tahiti has run round one in nice waves at Chopes. Waves were around the four foot plus size with nice open barrels and light winds.

Every heat bar one has had plent of waves coming through and some good scores have been dropped. Unfortunately Taj has continued his career long problem with round one heats losing his but he'll get another shot in round two.

The last heat of the day is in the water at the moment. FuelTV is broadcasting the event along with the usual webcast and iPad apps. However most days start about 4 am WA time.

The forecast is for a massive swell next weekend and the event organisers are worrying about there being too much swell. With another 11 days left in the waiting period it could become a classic event.

Saturday, August 13, 2011

Orange means go faster



The winter of swell doesn't seem to want to give up. The last three days had offshore full tide mornings and low tide glass offs in the afternoon and a front that should hit in the next few hours will bring another big red blob of swell next week.


There are a few out at the moment snaring some small side riders in the north westerly, the wind is picking up so the window for the next few days is closing quickly.



Monday, August 8, 2011

Again

Taj has been ripped off again. He clearly beat Slater but was underscored whilst Kelly was overscored.

Taj's first wave had a huge air but got a 6. Then he and Slater had identical waves where they both threw the same moves outside but TB did an extra in the shorie. However Slater gets a low seven when Taj gets a high six.

Slater gets a short barrel and a decent cutback for a high eight. Taj gets buried deep, so deep he was being written off by the commentators then burst out the doggy door for an 8.1. Twice as long, deeper, harder to control and obviously not worth the same !

Taj was not happy throughout the heat and the blatantly poor judging (and worse comments from one of the webcasters) totally ruined what should have been the heat of the day. There should have only been about half a point between them but the result should have been the other way around.

I suppose 100 000 yanks want to see Slater win not an Aussie. And we have to remember that this is the contest where in the 80's they rioted because someone saw some boobs. Maybe the judges wanted to be able to get to their cars after the event.

It will be a Slater v Dane Reynolds final unless Dane fails to make a single move. Like other sports the ASP seems to be heading towards the "it's entertainment so we can attract a mainstream audience and screw those that love the sport because they will watch anyway" direction. Non-surfer might by a t-shirt but they don't buy wetsuits although they don't have the same markup.

Taj seems to always be the victim of these hometown decisions and this is his second this year (it wasn't just Owen Wright who should have beaten DeSouza in Brazil). I think it cost him at least one world title during his career.

Sunday, August 7, 2011

TB vs KS

It's Taj v Kelly in the second semi of the US Open starting in about 15 minutes.

The waves are ok and both guys have been going big all event. I think it will be a killer and my money would normally be on Taj but Slater always gets an extra fraction of a point for his rides here. Another hometown advantage.

Google US Open Surfing for the webcast if you are still awake.

Still waves

Plenty of chopped up swell and rips around. There are quite a few out getting the odd decent walls. The waves are difficult to catch and there is a fair amount of current coming from all different directions so staying in a good spot can be hard.

The wind is pretty light at the moment and making it a little crumbly. The forecast is for the odd shower and WNW winds so don't dilly dally.




Saturday, August 6, 2011

Grom qualiity waves

A few years ago I would have been writing that I'd had a decent surf at the Back Beach or maybe the Clam today but not now.

The waves were ok, if inconsistent with the strong northerly cross chop. Get the right one and there looked to be some bumpy face. The beaches are all cut up so there are currents, backwashes, rocks and chop everywhere so it wouldn't have been an easy session.

But now I am too fat and unfit and my back is to stiff to allow my brain to override the creaks and groans of the body and get me out there. I actually want to surf but something a little easier

Thursday, August 4, 2011

Sun and southerlies

Finally some sun, even if it did make the morning freezing cold (1.7 at 6.00 am). The swell has dropped to around three metres and the wind have swung into the south.

Went down south on the off chance that PK would be working but it wasn't. The swell was wrapping in as far a Rocky Point but I was disappointed again. I have got to that age where I surf the waves that will be the funnest not the best and often decide to go to a place because that is the type of wave I want to surf and go away dry if that place isn't on despite waves elsewhere.

The trip across the hill to Yallingup revealed double overhead conditions with only a five guys out (and a whale). The wind was cross shore and there were some decent walls to carve if you caught the right one. One guy caught a long, long left and ended up coming in at Rabbits because that was closer than coming into the reef.






Smiths had some nice conditions and a few people dotted amongst the beach break. It looked like the people shooting the Tim Winton film were out at Supertubes. There were a couple of jet skis but not much action.

Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Hope

The coastal waters forecast suggests that the winds might swing offshore late tomorrow and stay that way through Friday. Swell hangs around three metres.

Locally the beach has been pretty hacked up so the swell might be wasted and even if there is a bank or two you'd better like surfing in choc milk. Be careful because there are a pile normally sand covered rocks that are now waiting for fins and feet.

If you're up for better waves head down south Friday and you should score.