Thursday, June 25, 2009

And the Thunder Rolls

Usually when I can hear the ocean from my bed its one of those super still summer nights and the waves are mini-zippers cracking on the shore.

Last night was different. Last night it was the deep resonance of a big swell pounding away.

Feedback from yesterday was that the swell is super thick and pinned my friend to the bottom as he tried to duck dive. Big horror drops and poundings were the name of the game.

Surfalert are calling 12 =- 15 ' at Marges on Sunday !

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