Twenty minutes and two waves before the sun went down. Juniors was cranking on the north swell.
It was really difficult to find the take off spot because it move sideways and in and out. That just meant you watched sweet waves detonating around you. Lots of unridden bombs because it was just me. Saw on right break at the back of the reef for a softish take off at head height, suck into a legitimate barrel section and the warp its way to the beach.
Just wished I'd gotten home earlier.
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