Not quite the two metres predicted (and then downgraded) but enough very north swell to push some two footers onto the reef at BP and Juniors.
It was an after work session from me with a very light onshore that wasn't making it off the beach. The tide was high and the crowd stupid both in size, ability and knowledge of the rules (see yesterday's post). I sat on the takeoff for the BP reef left and went right. The swell direction gave a bit of wall and there was almost enough water over the reef. The repair job on my fins that I did yesterday lasted three waves before I ground to a halt as they caught on the rocks.
Getting dropped in on every wave and a crew of groms sitting next to me was too much for my sanity and I finished off with a few at Barnacles.
As I was leaving one of the groms backdoored the reef take off for a full barrel but got clipped before he got out.
Stormsurf.com have a model which is showing some more north cyclone swell later in the week. Fingers crossed that it arrives and the crowds don't.
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