New Swell

Bit of a glass off and new pulse of swell in the water this afternoon. The swell was quite small but ever now and then a big one came through. Unfortunately the lack of a decent bank meant that most of the waves just shrunk and dumped in the shorie.

Tried to get a wave at Juniors. It looked smaller than it really was (although it wasn't big) but with a fair old current pushing north and a couple of decent rips to add to a lowish tide. Spent all my time paddling to try and get into position for the odd one that looked like it may hold up. Generally the waves peaked but rolled onto the shallow bank to crash.

Because it looked different from the beach I had decided to try out the old Bruce Montgomery 80's thruster that I had recently "restored". At 6'0" x 19" it was at least 10 inches shorter than anything I had ridden in the last ten years. Last time I had a board that small I was considerably younger, considerably fitter and a hell of a lot lighter. Needless to say I sank when sitting on it and struggled to catch any waves at all. Even when I though I got one I tended to just fall off the back. Might keep it in the shed for a clean summer day and try again.

Before

After