Wednesday, December 30, 2009

Day Five - 30/12/09

Early Morning

A little bit of a blow came in overnight and was still going this morning. The waves looked like early winter, mushy and dirty. Even the air smelt of salt and the ocean. The swell was really south and you could see it moving past BP. Somewhere it was pumping.



Morning (7.45)
Waves          : 2'+
Wind            : strong SSW
Quality         : 1.5 out of 5
Crowd         : 2 body board groms

Late Arvo

Wind gradually backed off and turned more southerly. The tide filled in and later it was quite good. The waves were a reasonable size but very hard to catch. The were holding up close to shore and one extra wiggle got you dumped in dry sand. There was a little crowd but only a couple were able to make the most of those that ran down the bank. One guy at Juniors (pictured) which had short choppy rides. He mixed little cover ups with cutbacks and tail slides. Although within spitting distance of each other the waves at Juniors and BP were very different.



Arvo (5.30)
Waves          : 2+ breaking close to shore
Wind            : South-ish, not totally sideshore but not onshore either
Quality         : 2.7 out of 5
Crowd         : Up to 20
Board          : 6'9" dhu-fish
Wave Count : 15

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