A few years ago I would have been writing that I'd had a decent surf at the Back Beach or maybe the Clam today but not now.
The waves were ok, if inconsistent with the strong northerly cross chop. Get the right one and there looked to be some bumpy face. The beaches are all cut up so there are currents, backwashes, rocks and chop everywhere so it wouldn't have been an easy session.
But now I am too fat and unfit and my back is to stiff to allow my brain to override the creaks and groans of the body and get me out there. I actually want to surf but something a little easier
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