Thursday, January 20, 2011

It's all relative

Wave quality depends more on how you feel than nature. I've just had a surf at juniors that I woul describe as fun and the waves as good. But others wouldn't even look at them.

The swell is small and with southerly in both swell and wind much is missing BP. The reef isn't working because of the direction but there is a peak off the nigger-head in the middle of the break. I surfed a mal and got some short but okay rides.

If I wasn't on holidays for only a few more days and if my head wasn't full of snot from a cold I might have chosen some other task but I'm glad i didn't and that attitude made the waves good.

However it does make it a little embarising when your surfing mates ask you if you're getting waves !

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